B/w for fashion

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I have been a professionial for 18 years but have worked intirely in color. I want to move more into b+w and have a question. I am trying to achieve a look in my Head Shot work were the skin takes on a very clean, almost porcelean look. I have been told Three ways to achieve this. 1. Overexpose 2-3 stops and develope normal. 2. underexpose 2-3 stops push 2-3 times. 3. overexpose 2-3 stops pull 2-3 times. Please let me know if any of these suggestions are correct. Also any other help you may have to offer

-- Anonymous, May 20, 1997

Answers

I've read many times that green filters with b&w film produces such an effect with skin tones. I have found that exposing the film normally (t-max 100 and delta 100) and printing light (i.e., lighter than would normally be done for portraits) yields good even, porcelain-like skin tones. (I shoot a lot of portraits and head shots). Look at fashion magazines and you'll see a lot of overexposed and very smooth skin tones. Some from air brushing no doubt, but it's true that printing light makes skin look really good (less texture, smoother, etc.) Good luck!

-- Anonymous, June 05, 1997

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