Soldering point rails to throwbar

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I am in the process of converting my Shinohara turnouts to "DCC friendly" with the help of the excellent article on this web site. I have unsoldered the closure rails from the pivot point and removed the metal strip under the pivot. I am at the point where I have to unsolder the rails from the throw bar and am having a moment of "mental blankness"..... if there is such a term !! I'm wondering what it means in the article "Solder the circuit board throw bar on. Solder it the same way it was attached to the Shinohara throw bar" ?? How can you solder the circuit board to the plastic throw bar? From the photos that accompany the article, it appears as though a new throw bar has been made from the circuit board material. If I do that, where abouts on the new throw bar are you supposed to solder the point rails ?? I hope all the above makes some sort of sense. If the answer is very simple, please excuse my ignorance. Many thnaks for all assistance and advice offered

cheers David Gallaway

-- David Gallaway (bagone@optusnet.com.au), May 23, 2004

Answers

David,

Yes, the throwbar is replaced with one made from a circuit board. The web page contains a contact from whom you can by circuit boards cut into thin strips to be used for the very purpose of making circuit board throwbars. Judging from your email address, I suspect you are not in the US, so you may have to resort to making your own throwbars. The web page describes how to make them yourself. Just be very careful as your hands will be dangerously close to a saw blade.

There is no special place that you have to solder the point rails to the circuit board throwbar. Just solder one rail down as shown in the photo on the web page. Solder the other point rail down leaving a gap large enough for the wheel flanges to pass through.

-- Allan Gartner (wire4dcc_admin@comcast.net), May 24, 2004.


David,

I am glad that you are able to get the circuit board throw bars from Clover House. They do indeed make things a lot easier.

Your method is correct.

Your desire to get it right the first time. It is not essential, but if you can get it right the first time, you are less likely to damage the turnout. It is, after all, made with meltable, plastic ties.

It is a good idea if you slide a piece of paper under the points before you solder then to the circuit board throw bars. This will help ensure that the points are not pressed down against the plastic ties. If they are, you will find that the points do not move very easily.

I forgot to mention in my previous response that you should make sure you are not modifying one of the new Walthers DCC Compatiable (Friendly) turnouts. They started shipping those around April of 2004. I sure would hate for you to go through the trouble of modifying a turnout that doesn't need modifying!

I think you mentioned removing a metal strip between the points. So I think you are modifying the old turnout. See my website for pictures of the new turnout if you are not sure.

-- Allan Gartner (wire4dcc_admin@comcast.net), May 26, 2004.


David,

I connect the point rails to the closure rails first and then solder the throwbar to the point rails as you plan to do.

Allan

-- Allan Gartner (wire4dcc_admin@comcast.net), May 27, 2004.


Hi Allan......Many thanks for your response. You are correct in your assumption, I live in Australia. I have already purchased and had delivered from Clover House some of their circuit board ties and throw bars. I can see that by using their product it will make the process a whole lot easier. So to summarise, I replace the plastic throw bar with one made from the circuit board material and then solder the point rails on, making sure that they replicate what was already there before making the changes ??? In other words connect the point rails to the closure rails as per the article, then solder the throw bar end (for want of a better word) of the point rails onto the throw bar such that one of the point rails is against a stock rail. The other point rail is soldered on anywhere, as long as I allow for wheel flange clearance. Please excuse my ignorance, I just want to make sure I get it right first time. Once again, many thanks for all your help

regards David Gallaway

-- David Gallaway (bagone@optusnet.com.au), May 25, 2004.


Thanks Allan for all your responses. I believe I have enough information, along with the article on this web site, to help me complete the job. As you say, if you can get it right the first time it makes life a whole lot easier with the rest. I'm converting Shinohara turnouts which do not appear to be "DCC friendly"

cheers and thanks again

David Gallaway

-- David Gallaway (bagone@optusnet.com.au), May 26, 2004.



Allan.....sorry to be a pain in the neck, but further to one of my earlier questions, from your experience is it easier to connect the point rails to the closure rails ( with half rail joiners ) first and then solder the opposite end of the point rails to the new throwbar ??

cheers and thanks again David Gallaway

-- David Gallaway (bagone@optusnet.com.au), May 26, 2004.


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