Please tell me how to get to the air filter, from start to finish without breaking anything...Many thanks.

-- (carlstatham@supanet.com), March 31, 2004

Answers

Right I'm going throught this from memory and trying to keep it simple.

1) Lift the seat - unclip the tail light cable, take off the small rubber tops from the seat hinge pins, remove the pins and take the seat off.

2) Take off the silver side covers.

3) Remove the rear tank bolt - next to the seat hinge.

4) Carefully pull the tank up and back - not too far as the hoses are still attached underneath.

5) Ideally you will have an able assistant at this point to unclip the two fuel lines - just squeeze the clips - and pull off the tank overflow pipe. It can be done solo if you are feeling brave.

6) Now you can remove the tank - have somewhere padded to store it and make sure it cant fall over - best to do this with as little fuel as possable as it can be quite heavy.

7) Remove the intake covers from the sides of the airbox - the triangular plastic things that you realy want to change for carbon at some point.

The fairing removal steps can be avioded if you are careful but you do run a small risk of damaging the air intake tubes so I have described the safe way to do this - it sounds a lot but only takes a little longer and you can clean out all those nooks and crannies that gather dirt while your in there. (Non fairing removal - I can do this with my bike but it has aftermarket airtubes so may not work on all bikes - CAREFULLY pull the intake tubes sideways so that the are clear of the airbox openings then go to step 12)

8) Remove the fairing lowers.

9) Remove the allen bolt inside the fairing that holds the mirror stalks. Then the mirrors themselves - you could then undoo the wireing from the stay and take the mirrors off, but thats a bit fiddly and aslong as you are careful you can leave them hanging.

10) you can now remove the top fairing.

11) take off the electics cover plates on top of the airtubes and then remove these aswell.

12) remove the bolt either side of the airbox and this can then be removed.

13) turn it over - pull the tape off and you can now slide out the airfilter.

14) refitting is reverse of above (as Haynes would say)

15) be very carfull when refitting the inlet covers as the well nuts on these are prone to falling appart - if they show any signs of damage on removal then REPLACE THEM, it would be best if you get yourself 4 new ones before you start. If the do fall appart they will drop staight into the throttle intakes and can bend valves!

Final bit of advise - it's not as hard as this description perhaps sounds and you realy get a nice understanding of how the bike is constucted when you see it stipped down like this. Just take it slow, have plenty of space to lay all the bodywork out. This is where it can get damaged - when the kids and the dog decide to stomp all over it and knock your tank over etc.

Final disclaimer - AT YOUR OWN RISK - I will NOT be accepting 4 figure claims from anyone for damaged - lost - stolen - or dog chewed bodywork. If you are not confident about picking up tools then DON'T you are putting yourself/your property/your sanity all at risk.

-- Mark M (m.magenis@btinternet.com), April 01, 2004.

Mark M. Your instructions are great, but I have found that the mirrors can stay attached to the upper fairing. There is an electrical contact block on the bottom of the mirror support stalks that makes it unnecessary to to remove them. Just remove the M6 bolt (about 50mm long) from each side and the fairing wiggles off without problem. Ken Nash

-- Kenny Nash (nashmachinery@sbcglobal.net), April 01, 2004.

Kenny,

I've thaught about leaving the mirrors in place but mine seem to be a bit tight. Probably the carbon airtubes aren't quite true, but a valid suggestion nevertheless.

-- Mark M (m.magenis@btinternet.com), April 06, 2004.