I have a new savage 10fp in .308.Iwould like to change the barrel to 22-250. with both barrels I could change back and forth.This would give me one gun and scope in two cal. savage will not sell the barrels unless they install them. I can get a new take off barrel from a varmit gun. 1.are the threads on the barrel all the same? 2.Are the Varmit Barrels the same dia?

-- Glenn T anderson (www.gta1@olynet.com), May 23, 2003

Answers

WWW.SAVAGESHOOTERS.COM Look over to tha right and click-on Sharp Shooter Supply.

-- Vincent Daniels (bittymd@aol.com), April 10, 2004.

Forgot to mention that the cost of the Douglas barrels are 239.00. And, that you DO NOT need to spend the extra 44.00 for the action wrench. After removing 4 Savage factory barrels, I have determined that they are torqued to about 50 ft. lbs.; Therefore, if you torque the barrel vice down to 60 ft. lbs, the barrel nut will break-free without your having to use an action wrench. The Sharp Shooter Catalog puts it another way: "once the barrel is secure, the lock nut is usually removed with a sharp yank of the wrench. If stubborn, a tap with a mallet or hammer should do. It may be necessary to hold the receiver for turning with the nut. After the new barrel is installed, a sized case or head space guage is inserted into the chamber and the barrel is screwed down until resistance is felt on the bolt. The amount of resistance on the bolt lift should be just enough to let you know that the case is present in the chamber. At that point, the lock nut should be snugged up hand tight." I have found that 25 ft. lbs. is about as hand tight as you can get and after 30 ft. lbs., the reciever might move thus causing you to have to have an action wrench, which you don't need. Sharp Shooter also says that "A cresent wrench can be used along the tang area to hold the reciever but make sure that you cover the jaws of the wrench with heavy tape, etc. I always use my NEW un-fired case to set my head space as per I have found that in doing so, I don't have to worry about fire forming cases to fit the chamber, which is something that I would have to worry about if I used a go guage to set the head space. Try them out, you'll have 8 different chamberings on 3 different barrels that all shoot sub 1/2 inch groups JUST LIKE EYE DO!

-- Vinni Daniels (RLSTR1300@AOL.COM), December 02, 2003.

Boy, do I need to bring you guys up to speed. I will try to make a long answer short so here we go. Sharp Shooter Supply, 1-419-695-3179, Delphos, Ohio. Sells nothing but Savage parts and I mean all of them. "Our barrels are made from Douglas XX Blanks, fully chambered and threaded for Savage rifles. All barrels are stainless stell, same contour as factory varmint models". I ordered two 223 barrels from them, put them on myself without a headspace guage and shoot in the 3's all day, any day with 335, 2015, 748 or reloader 10x. I stopped by there last week and ordered a 221 fireball, 17 remington and 2 22- 250's. Nuf said! To set the headspace, all you need to do is screw the barrel on with a empty, sized cased in the chamber and keep closing the chamber until you feel the case drag. At that point you tighten the barrel nut up to 25 to 30 foot pounds and you're done. I have a copy of their catalog on my puter and can e-mail it to anyone that wants a copy. Just send me a note saying "send me the Sharp Shooter Catalog" or call them for one. On the note of the barrel wrench, Midway or gun parts sell the same wrench with a cut-out for 1/2 inch wrench. I prefer that style as per you can use your torque wrench to tighten the lug up where you want it. I have found that if you hand tighten it, it will come out about the same place. You will also need the Wheeler barrel vice from midway and some lead shims. And a 1/2 inch 38MM socket from J.C. Whitney to torque the vice down to about 50 ft. pounds to remove a factory installed barrel. If you need to know more, you can call me 24 hours a day at 1-585-544-3860. RLSTR1300@AOL.COM

-- Vinni Daniels (RLSTR1300@AOL.COM), December 01, 2003.

to the guy having problems holding his groups it could be that you barrel is touching in the channel some where as the barrel heats the point of impact will change, to check to see if the barrel is floated try sliding a dollar bill down between the stock and barrel if you find a tight spot remove the stock and sand it out , you also could have a loose action screw .hope it helps .

-- john ssssss (snackdoggy dog@yahoo.com), November 29, 2003.

the grouping problem after the first set of shots sounds as if you have a bedding issue or stock issue. also make sure there's not a lick of copper in the barrel. new gun barrels (especially factory savage barrels) can pull a lot of copper until they are shot in. sounds more like a stock problem though.

-- nathan (nanaymt@juno.com), October 19, 2003.

Why not just buy another model 10fp, Savage is an affordable gun at less than $500.00.

-- (KLGreene1@AOL.com), October 15, 2003.

Hey Glen, Christopher, and Craig:

Add one more Savage nut to the bush. I have two #10s, short action. I bought the second one just to get the "AccuTrigger". I have found that if I crank it down to the lowest pull it isn't too stable, hot or cold.

Glen, if you switch barrels you need to contact Midway for a set of Go/No-go gauges for each caliber. You'll also need a barrel vise and wrench. They also carry 22-250 barrels. You might think about a machined recoil lug also. Savage apparently stamps theirs. The lug on one of my rifles is pretty flat and square. The other is NOT.

This has turned into a nightmare(a nice one). I have .300WSM, .308, .22-250, .223 barrels....so far. I can't believe the tool box that I carry to the range with me. I have extra bolt assemblies(WSM, .308, and .223 head sizes), different magazines and followers to eliminate feed problems....

It goes on and on. God help me if my wife finds the 111, 30-06 I have hidden upstairs.

Good luck with your affliction. I haven't found a cure.

Bud in Oregon

P.S. If you order an extra bolt(case head change) be aware that Midway's bolt assemblies do not come with the ejector. You need an ejector, spring , and pin. I'm only talking ten bucks, total, but it is a pain to wait until they send them to you.

-- Bud Pitts (www.buddianna@msn.com), September 01, 2003.

Not an answer, but I have the .308 10FP and I cannot get it to shoot consistently. I have the Burris 4-14.5X Ballistic scope on two piece Leupold base and rings. I have tried Federal 150gr ballistic tip, and Black hills 165gr mbtsp ammunition. At 100yds, it punches the same hole on one 3 round group, but the next it is 1" from round to round. All screws are "blue" loctited, the stock screws are the same (found this problem earlier) but it seems to wonder. Also the accutrigger will not function when it gets hot. I have to unlock and lock the bolt until the 1st stage of the trigger will release. When it is cold on my work bench for cleaning it works fine.

-- craig moser (camoser@aol.com), August 25, 2003.

One of the gun mags did an article in the last year on how to make your savage a multi-calibre rifle. Adams & Bennet was the manufacturer. I have heard very mixed reviews of their barrels, so you have to decide. The Savage rifle has a unique barrel nut system that allows you to adjust the headspace on a rifle. Something like you screw the barrel in until the headspace is set properly, then tighten down the barrel nut. It is not the torque on the barrel itself that determins the headspace.

You could have any of the aftermarket barrel makers make a threaded and chambered for you. E.R. Shaw seems to be a good value, and there are the others: Walther-Lothair, Douglass, Lilja, Pac-Nor, etc. Price range from about $125 (Shaw) up to $3-500 (Lilja)

Good luck - very do-able concept on a Savage rifle. 22-250 and 308 should feed the same. I have a 300 WM and I could not get a small cartridge like that to feed.

-- Christopher J. Samuelson (csam00000@netscape.net), June 08, 2003.