PC Throwbars creating a draggreenspun.com : LUSENET : Wiring for DCC : One Thread
I have modified several Walthers Code 83 (with the new style point hinges) and a older Shinohara Code 70 turnout. They all have turned out (ha!) with about the same point movement characterstics: fairly easy to move with light finger pressure but definitely stiffer and springy-er than the factory condition.
I wanted to used a turnout motore imported by Aspendmodel (a German motor made by Hoffman) (www.apsenmodel.com) I have very shallow (2") benchwork due to a shelf design and this motor is quite thin. The problem is that the points are stiff enough with the mods that this motor cannot close the point fully. On a factory turnout, the motor works fine.
Has anyone else run into the stiff points being a problem with other machines - perhaps atlas under table mounts? Any tips on how to get the throwbar to be "looser"?
I have been reviewing your photos of the Hankscraft with the Rix II mount and this may clear if I cut off the microswitch mounts. (Anyone know the diameter of the Hankscraft motor?)
I am assuming that since there is so much positive written about this motor that it has no problem cranking those points over. I adopt them if I can get them to fit in my 2" of benchwork clearance.
-- Bill Geiger (email@example.com), April 30, 2003
I use a turnout, the Tillig, that has no hinge at all. You don't get any stiffer than a turnout that is like this. There are a few others on the market like that. Many of the semi-kit types like the B&K are this way. Using the Hankscraft motor, I don't have any problems. Note that while stiff, you don't have to solder around the hinge. So I take the stiff and use a strong motor.
You asked two other questions.
Taking the simple question first, look in the Parts section of my web page. http://www.WiringForDCC.com/parts.htm. The shaft is 1/8" in diameter.
The question on how to deal with making a stiff turnout less stiff, is in the section on turnouts http://www.WiringForDCC.com/switches.htm It's right under the photo of the bond and is stated twice. I guess this is a hint that I need to make this stand out more!
It is simpler to make the jumper across your points to closure rails and less prone to making a mistake. The alternative is to drop feeders down under the layout from the points and attach them to your buses. I am tempted to make this the "preferred" approach. It always works. You can use the weakest switch machine on the market and it still works! I want to give advice that you can consistently apply. I want every modeler to be successful.
Unfortunately, while dropping two feeders seems like a simple solution to me, we have found that with so many feeders coming down from the turnouts, invariably they get wired wrong by most people. I wish it could be simpler. I hate adding two feeders making things worse.
Yes, the solution to your problem is to do away with the bonds around the hinge of your turnout and to drop two feeders down from the points instead. Just be EXTREMELY careful and SURE of which bus to connect them to.
I think my drawings are very clear how to wire up turnouts. With the colors, it would seem you couldn't go wrong. But having to look on top of the layout and then look at everything upside down, it is probably no surprise mistakes are easily made. So be careful!
-- Allan Gartner (bigboy@WiringForDCC.com), May 07, 2003.
Something that seems to work for me is cutting through the web at the hinge point and only leaving the head of the rail attached. This takes out the web of the rail from contributing stiffness to the points. It is done when I construct the turnout, (I hand lay) I generally do this to number 8 and larger turnouts. when you get smaller than number 8's (6,5,4's) its generally better to have a hinge point, and solder a magnet wire to the hinge and point rails. You could have solid rails throughout but I think only a Hangscraft motor has the power to push the points closed. The problem with this is not the turnout motor, its the soldered points and throwbar, Your approaching breaking strength with that kind of torque, (I work in N scale)
Rob Prototrack, Alaska firstname.lastname@example.org
-- Rob de rebel (email@example.com), October 21, 2004.