Technical crampons for glacier travel?

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What are everyones opinions on using technical ice crampons for general glacier travel? Is it a bad idea, good idea?

Thanks

-- Matt (mvanzeeland@yahoo.com), December 18, 2002

Answers

I've never used crampons but from all the advice i've heard and the reviews i read, it seems like rigid technical crampons get cloged up w/ snow too much. They likened them to a cookie cutter. Make sure you have flexible crampons w/ flexible boots for walking on snow. A lot of companies put plastic plates in their design to try and stop this, but from what i've heard it doesn't work, the snow still builds up too much.

-- Jim Davis (jmdavis384@aol.com), January 14, 2003.

If you already own technical crampons they will work. If money is an issue you can make your own anti-balling plates using the smooth plastic sheet. I get one of those "roll-up" sleds and cut the plastic to fit.

Technical crampons tend to have more points often closer together which can cause snow to stick. they also have vertical front points. For general snow mountaineering horizontal front points can be preferable. Primarily, not-technical crampons are not fully ridged meaning they are more compatable with non-plastic boots, ie boots with some flex or more highly rockered plastic boots. They can be lighter and they may have strap systems again more compatable with softer boots. Finally, they are less expensive so if you are buying a pair go with a less technical crampon and you will be happy. If you have ice climbing pair already you can use them, just consider a plastic anti-balling plate. You also can spray them with with various waterproof type products which help limit stick but of course wear off quickly as well.

-- David Beneman (beneman@maine.rr.com), February 28, 2003.


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