The yeast spread can grow on you

By Todd Richissin, Baltimore Sun, 11/29/2002

LONDON - Among the great mysteries of England there is Stonehenge, the ring of massive cut stones that for centuries has confounded archeologists, astronomers, historians, and theologians, all of whom have researched the grounds and after thoughtful contemplation developed detailed theories of how the configuration came to be and just what spiritual or scientific or humanistic significance it might possess.

Then there is the true great mystery of England: Marmite spread.

And this one really has people confused.

Marmite's origins are known, its roots well documented. But unexplainable by conventional thought is how Marmite has survived. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the bread spread - it's a yeast extract, if pointing that out doesn't affect your breakfast too much - and the collective question in England seems to be: Is this something worth celebrating?

It is, of course, to Marmite's makers, who revel in the fact that a large percentage of the English loathe the ''food,'' which resembles spent motor oil in texture, appearance and, some would argue, in taste.

But the makers quickly point out that Marmite can be found in more than one in four kitchens in England, that for every Marmite hater there's a Marmite lover who could not imagine eating his or her morning toast without first slathering on the viscous brown spread.

Marmite has become as identifiably British as red double-decker buses, the silhouette of its squat jar as recognizable here as that of Big Ben.

With its 100th birthday underway, Marmite's producers, Bestfoods Ltd., are unashamedly pushing it at every turn, with commemorative jars, testimonials from members of the Royal Family, motions in the House of Commons, and an advertising campaign that acknowledges that consumers would be kind to double up on the mouthwash.

''There is really no fighting the fact that some people absolutely hate the stuff,'' said Sabrina Lynch, a Marmite spokeswoman who confesses to slapping it on her toast. ''This is a tongue-in-cheek way of acknowledging that people either love it or hate it.''

Marmite has been produced since 1902 in Staffordshire, just a few staggers away from the Bass brewery in Burton-on-Trent, which is no coincidence. The basic raw material used in the manufacture of Marmite is spent brewer's yeast, a substance whose original and only use was to ferment grains into alcohol.

After Marmite got off the ground and into the jar, it was discovered the new food was also rich in a number of B vitamins. It became a staple of meals for British soldiers in World War II - although Bestfoods acknowledges soldiers were as likely to spread Marmite under the zipper area of their pants to stave off infection as they were to eat it.

The acknowledgment is typical of Bestfoods, which has found no point in denying that some people would rather put their lips to Prince Charles than to Marmite. With the beginning of the centennial year came a television campaign letting consumers know that, well, if they wanted to hate it that was fine. Just as long as its lovers went unharassed.

Oliver Bradley, the Marmite official responsible for pushing the stuff, says the advertising campaign only made sense. Marmite is as common in England as the Sunday roast, he says, so there is no sense trying to convince people that the product is something it's not. ''We know that for 100 years, a whole lot of people have hated it,'' he said. ''Our brand, unlike others, has the confidence and cheekiness to say, `We know that and we don't care.'''

-- Anonymous, November 30, 2002