The subject kinda sez it all. Are there any diesel rated synthetic oils? You know, like Amsoil etc.

I remember seeing a demonstration several years ago. Two transparent plastic boxes refrigerated to -20f. Little plastic gears that you'd turn with a hand crank. One "box" had regular gear lube and the other Amsoil. The Amsoil one turned ALOT easier than the other.

This might be a good thing to think about for 4wd vehicles too. Synthetic lube in differentials, tranny and transfer case.

I was thinking synthetic motor oil would act the same way and the diesel engines would start alot easier in the winter because they'd spin faster with the starter.

-- john (natlivent@pcpros.net), June 01, 2002

Answers

one of the problems Ive seen first hand with synthetics is, gaskets dont seem to hold them. One of my friends built up his 86 Lincoln MArk VI ,, it would run 11 sec quarter mile, he kept the interior the same, he called it, racing in comfort. HE tried synthetic oil in it,, and not one gasket would hold it. It was leaking all over the place. Didnt have that problem before switching, nor did he after he switched back. One problem with deisels started hard in winter, if the fuel dowsnt want to burn, hence glow plugs. I run 15w40 in my deisel all year, and it can be a bear to crank over when the temp is -20. Thats why they make block heaters I guess. If you try it,, be sure to post your results, Id be interested

-- Stan (sopal@net-pert.com), June 02, 2002.

I cant remember the name of the stuff but they still have those display in the parts sores here but its a different product name then what you mentioned, i never really thought much about it untill a friend i was telling about needing to get some slick 50 for the old binder,told me about how he uses it in everything and he dont have any oil leaks. He started to use it after his son turned him on to it. His son uses it in his OTR truck all the time. I normaly use Slick 50 but i dont always have to money for it i normaly drive vehicles that should be in the junk yard and i have heard the differance it will quite down a motor with a slight knock and they run cooler, but im thinking of giving this other stuff a try i just cant remember the name off hand

-- Mike in KS (mhonk@kscable.com), June 02, 2002.

I am IGNORANT of engines and electric. My most challenging problems on the farm come with equipment.

Soooooo, what exactly is "Slick 50"? I have a knock in the engine of my "back-up" 4wd Toyota four-runner '88. Toyota wanted to put in a new engine in it three years ago. Another person told me the knock is down "low" in the engine and you can't tell how bad it is. I figure I can drive it till it goes, and then get it fixed. I only use it once a month or so, and so far, so good. Still, if there is something that would take away the "knock", that would be a good thing, right?

-- Granny Hen (cluckin along@cs.com), June 02, 2002.

Granny, it doesnt "fix" or "take away" the knock. What slick 50 or other additives are SUPPOSED to do is make things real SLICK insinde the engine. So you dont have the wait period at start up before the oil gets all over and such. There are pros and cons to them all, like attacking some metal inside youe engine,, being too slick to go around gaskets, bearing may not be compatable with them, and cause them to fail early, ect

-- Stan (sopal@net-pert.com), June 02, 2002.

Slick 50 is an engine treatment thats supposed to give you 50,000 miles of protection. Its a teflon based additive that puts a very thin semi permanent film of teflon over the moving parts of an engine. Its not to be used as an oil replacement but more as a supplement, and only every 40-50,000 miles. It does increase engine life because it dramatically reduces cold start wear and will, in some cases, increase fuel mileage.

Around here its about $16/qt and you add one qt to your normal oil change. I doubt if it'd hurt to try it. I've driven vehicles with a rod knock for alot of miles with no harm done. Just make sure you keep oil in the vehicle and don't work it too hard and you should be ok for a long time.

-- john (natlivent@pcpros.net), June 02, 2002.