Linhof Technika Restorationgreenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread
I'm looking for a good suggestion for an adhesive to reapply leatherette to a Linhof Technika V? I tried double sided adhesive tape from a sewing store, but the side next to the leatherette never really set up and actually "ran" over time (making a sticky mess). The side next to the metal body stuck quite well (making for a difficult and entertaining afternoon of disassembly!).
-- Paul Metcalf (email@example.com), May 27, 2002
Try contact cement. I used it on Mamiya C-330 leatherette and it did fine except that the edge was curled from age and, I suppose, heat. If the leatherette is flat, it should be easy, apply the cement thinly to both surfaces and let dry for 15-20 minutes before doing the deed. You need to be careful to have the leatherette aligned, because when the surfaces make contact, there won't be much repositioning.
If the leatherette is curled you might try ironing it carefully with a piece of cloth between the iron and leatherette. If it's damaged, you might try replacing it from microtools.com
-- Steve Hamley (firstname.lastname@example.org), May 27, 2002.
According to Marflex, the authorized repair center for Linhof in NJ, contact cement is recommended. I used it on my Super Technika V when I had to replace a part that required peeling the leather away to access screws. After removing the leather, I VERY CAREFULLY removed the old glue first, then applied the contact cement (just enough so it doesn't seep out on the edges when I applied pressure). I applied the glue to both surfaces; waited 20 - 30 minutes; VERY CAREFULLY ALIGNED the leather with the body; joined the two surfaces.
You may want to call Marflex...although they recommended this procedure to me, it was for a small leather piece on the back of the camera. It could be that a different procedure is recommended for the larger pieces.
Bob Salomon.....what do you think? You and Marflex are my sources when I have Linhof questions?
Good luck Paul....
J. P. Mose
-- J. P. Mose (email@example.com), May 27, 2002.
All these cements like contact cement, Pliobond, etc. are quite noxious and flammable and I think quite unnecessary. I would use good old Elmer's Glue, which could be thinned a bit with water if necessary or any of the PVA archival glues-these latter glues set quickly. GOOD LUC
-- David Stein (DFStein@aol.com), May 27, 2002.
Richard Boulware let me use some special double sided tape from 3M that was marvelous for this application. Prevented me from having to commit to the glue scenario and did the job like a champ. The tape is a bit hard to figure out how to use because it is so thin, but once you get beyond that, it is a breeze. Hopefully he will chime in here. If you are interested, drop me a line and I will do my best to assist.
-- Michael Kadillak (firstname.lastname@example.org), May 28, 2002.
I just did a whole camera(Tech V)with the 3M tape, and I like it much better than Plybond which I like better than everything else, I have tried.
-- Neal Shields (email@example.com), May 28, 2002.
I really like the 3M double sided tape, it is available, though not cheap, at www.micro-tools.com. It worked great for my Technika. They also sell leatherette which has an adhesive on it.
-- jason (firstname.lastname@example.org), May 28, 2002.
The 3M tape that Mike Kadillak reference came from me, and I got it from Micro-Tools, the big camera repair people. It IS expensive...but works like a champ. It is product #9465PC and cost #25.00 for a roll 1" X 60 yards. (Enough for a lifetime). It is a plasticizer resistant adhestive and far superior to Pliobond which I have used for other hobby purposes for decades. I got it to re tack some tan leatherette on my Super Technika V. Results are beautiful, but it is tricky stuff to work with. If anyone would like to purchase a small bit of my large supply, I will entertain ideas. Richard Boulware - Richard Boulware Photography - Denver. email; email@example.com, or you can spend $25...at Micro-Tools. web site is: www.micro-tools.com.
-- Richard Boulware (firstname.lastname@example.org), May 28, 2002.
Paul: Previous recommendations however well intentioned should be treated with caution. Let us start with that on the 'noxious' solvents. You would be handling a tube of the adhesive and applying a few mls to glue the few sq. centimetres of leatherette. You would be breating more noxious stuff and in greater quantities just getting to work! The food at a fast food chain is more likely to harm you than using a few mls of adhesive. People these days are living longer but dying of unfounded fears. Next is the real question, what to use. Elmer's glue or any other vinyl acetate emulsion adhesives are a bad advice. PVAcs like Elmer's glue do not bond vinyl or metal and will not produce a firm, permanent bond. Leatherette used by many manufacturers is made of plasticized polyvinyl chlorinde, not real leather as far as I know. For vinyl, contact adhesives are not good choices. Vinyl contains plasticizers that migrate into and soften the adhesive and in time the plasticized adhesive can become soft enough to allow lifting at the edges as ocurred to the Steve with his Mamiya in a posting above. Industrially there are adhesives available that are appropriate for vinyl to metal bonding but in the consumer market they are rare. Double faced tape as recommended by Michael is probably a better idea. Usually the adhesives in 2X tape are acrylic and may not be succeptible to vinyl plasticizer migration. To be sure, ask 3M. Whatever you do be sure to remove the previous adhesive or gunk from the metal. Using a little solvent first may help followed by sanding with fine sandpaper. Now, if the 'leatherette" is leather, yes, any solvent borne contact adhesive will do a good job.
-- Julio Fernandez (email@example.com), May 29, 2002.