The lab where I have my films developed uses the following developers:

Rodinal HC-110 ID-11 Microphen Tmax Atomal (maybe)

I will be needing a fairly high speed EI of 1600 or 3200 and the following films are available to me: Delta 400, HP5-plus, Tri-X, Neopan 400 and 1600, Agfa 400, Tmax 400 and perhaps Tmax 3200. Unfortunately no Delta 3200 as it is WAY to expensive here.

Any suggestion on the film, developer, dilution combination?

I will be shooting a wedding (not as the main photog. :) in the "available darkness" and I do not use flash.

(also x-posted at B&W Film forum - sorry :)

Best regards,

-- Boris BRECELJ (boris@brecelj-op.si), April 23, 2002

Answers

T-Max 3200 at either EI 1600 or 3200, developed in T-Max developer. Meter it carefully to prevent blown-out highlights. Neopan 1600 (at EI 1600) developed in T-Max is also really good, but meter carefully to prevent underexposure. I've never been impressed with pushing Neopan to EI 3200. In a pinch you can push HP5+ to EI 1600 and develop it in Microphen (straight or 1:1, but I prefer the latter), but you'll lose some shadow detail.

-- Chuck Albertson (chucko@siteconnect.com), April 23, 2002.

Delta 400 pushed to 1600 in T-Max developer can look pretty nice (not as contrasty as N eopan 1600).

-- Chris Chen (furcafe@NOSPAMcris.com), April 23, 2002.

Tmax 3200 at 1600....HC110 dilution B,74 degrees,agitate for 30sec then once every 30 sec for 5 sec.6 min total develop time.Easy!

-- Emile de Leon (knightpeople@msn.com), April 23, 2002.

Believe it or not I shoot Tri-X at iso 1600, process in Microphen (straight, not diluted) @ 70 degrees for 12-13 minutes, depending on how I feel about the light and exposure, and get beautiful negs- very acceptable. Results look like Tri-X at 400 in D-76 normal. Same contrast and sharpness. Started doing this when I worked at a boutique lab in NYC- it's what a few high-end shooters use in a pinch. Try it.

Also, T-Max @1600 in Rodinal with vitamin C is good too. Try pushing it too.

-- drew (swordfisher@hotmail.com), April 23, 2002.

T-Max is a push developer and is good for the purpose. D-76 is still one of the best push developers. Your lab apparently doesn't offer it, but ID-11 is practically equivalent. HC-110 is a high-acutance developer. Ostensibly, this should increase the film speed because high-acutance developers do not etch the grain. In the case of HC- 110, though, there's apparently no speed increase:

"Not all high-definition develops increase speed. Rodinal, HC-110, Dilute Dk-50, and D-76 1:3, do not."

-----From The Film Developing Cookbook, by Anchell and Troop.

One developer you did not mention, but worth knowing about, for this and other purposes, is Kodak XTOL. It's very good for push developing, in case your lab begins offering it. I would start with T-Max. If the results look flat, give ID-11 a try.

-- Bob Fleischman (RFXMAIL@prodigy.net), April 23, 2002.

BTW, the statement that D-76 1:3 does not increase film speed does not mean that D-76 is not good for this purpose: just not at 1:3. Anchell and Troop recommend D-76 (straight)for TMAX P3200; D-76 straight for Tri-X at 1600; etc; but we won't dwell on this as your lab hasn't got D-76.

Microphen is shown as useable at 1600 for all the films you mention except for Agfapan 400. The only listing for taking Agfapan 400 to 1600 is Atomal or XTOL. ID-11 is included at 1600 for: Neopan 400; Neopan 1600; HP-5; Delta 400 Pro; NOT for Tri-X, TMAX 400, or P3200.

TMax developer is shown as okay for Fuji Neopan 400; HP5; Tri-X; and TMAX 400; all at 1600. But NOT for those not mentioned.

The ones A&C mention as best for push (T-MAX, D-76/ID-11, XTOL) will deliver about maybe 1/3 stop more shadow speed than others mentioned, which only increase density in already denser areas.

Guess that covers it for now.

-- Bob Fleischman (RFXMAIL@prodigy.net), April 23, 2002.

You'll need to do some testing.

If you want the best overall tonal rendition and intend to print fairly small or don't mind graininess, I recommend TMZ in Microphen. Otoh if you intend to print large, can't stand large grain, or don't mind if the rendition is somewhat harsh with empty, black shadows, push Delta 400 or HP5 in Microphen.

So you see it's a tossup; if you push a slow film you'll get some harshness and loss of shadow detail but comparatively fine grain and good sharpness while if you use a faster film and develop it appropriately you'll get very good tonal rendition, reasonable sharpness but large grain.

-- John Hicks (jhicks31@bellsouth.net), April 24, 2002.

Just a note about neopan - the 1600 speed film is really iso 400 with a lower contrast and therefore suitability for pushing (you still won't get much shadow detail). Your best bet up to 800-1000 is ilford delta 400 with microphen. Beyond that tmax 3200 in microphen or tmax. (nb. tmax has an iso of 800-1000 but can be pushed to 3200 or 6400 but is pretty darn grainy). Shame about delta 3200 as it is a fine film - can't you get it delivered by e.g. 7dayshop.com?

-- Steve Jones (stephenjjones@btopenworld.com), April 24, 2002.