Shinohara Turnouts for DCCgreenspun.com : LUSENET : Wiring for DCC : One Thread
I am converting an existing layout and don't want to remove all the switches for modification as in Allen's Suggestion #2-6a. Is there a good alternative? Would treating them like the Kato Unitrack as in Suggestion #2-19 work just as well?
-- Bob Evans (email@example.com), March 06, 2002
Bob, if your existing layout operates trouble free on DC, then just switch to DCC. All Allen's modifications are suggestions and are not required when converting. That said, some of them are more important suggestions than others but if you have to tear things up to make changes, then it is probably not worth it. However, if you start having problems then keeping the suggestions in mind will probably help you solve them.
I converted from DC and have not had any trouble with any of the installed track work.
Enjoy your DCC.
-- Dale Gloer (firstname.lastname@example.org), March 07, 2002.
I agree w/ Dale. No real need to re-work the switch is it works OK on DC. I have had no problem letting the throw rod wipers set frog polarity. BUT... 1. The backside of the wheel on some long wheel based locos will lick the opposite polarity rail while rolling through the switch. On DC the momentary short was not a problem because the throttle limited current. On DCC it causes sparks. If travel speed is slow, the booster may cut out on overcurrent. Using a current limiting lightbulb in series with each switch rail feeder resolves the problem (isolated joiners at each switch rail). 2. Walthers/Shinohara double crossovers also have a similar problem at the crossing frogs. The cure is to set all 4 approach switches to the same position. 4 tortoi motors wired in parallel do the job nicely. DonV
-- Don Vollrath (email@example.com), March 07, 2002.