As an admirer of fine things, I have always liked the look and build of Nikon, and of the Leica rangefinders cameras. I recently felt it was time to be realistic about my phtographic habits, and therefore my Nikon F5 had to go. I was just reluctant to take it with me everywhere, it was like carrying a brick around! Of course, it is a great camera, but just not suited to me, or my photographic habits. I am however, pleased that I had the pleasure of owning and using an F5 for some 4 years. If the camera had to go, then so did the lenses, and blow-it, the F90x could go as well! Yes, it was impulsive, but boy, do I feel pleased with myself now. I shall be taking my newly purchased black M6TTL with me everywhere. Whilst I only have the 50mm Summicron at the moment, I hope to add more soon (I shall have to pacify my wife - she just doesn't understand me).

I have just one question, and that relates to ergonomics; I am all 'fingers and thumbs' trying to adjust shutter speed and aperture when the camera is at my eye, not sure which hand to use to make adjustments. Do the seasoned users out there have any tips on the best way to operate the camera? I would appreciate your comments - thanks.

-- Nigel Croxford (nigel@ncroxford.freeserve.co.uk), March 02, 2002

Answers

I don't know that I qualify as a seasoned user. I've used the M6TTL for about two years. I usually select the slowest shutter speed that I think will stop the action and then just adjust the aperture. If it is very bright I select a shutter speed that will get me close to the aperture I prefer. I don't change the shutter speed often. Once you are in the range a click or two of the aperture ring should get you where you need to be. The more you practice the easier it will be for you. Enjoy and I hope this helps.

-- David Enzel (dhenzel@vei.net), March 02, 2002.

Nigel,

You may also need to adjust to the meter, which is not what you are used to on the F5. The F5 matrix meter is tough to beat, IMHO.

David

-- David Enzel (dhenzel@vei.net), March 02, 2002.

Nigel:

Welcome to the club. I too loved my F5, but as of three weeks ago I sold my last piece of Nikon gear. And I agree that it feels liberating somehow...

Anyway, as far as ergonomics are concerned, this is how I "manage" the controls of my M6TTL whilst up at my eye: Right index finger adjusts shutterspeed, left index finger and thumb adjust aperture, left middle finger adjusts focus with tabbed lenses. For some reason, I have not yet "standardized" a focus routine for non-tabbed lenses, so I either use my left middle finger and thumb or index and thumb depending on the size of the lens. (And I'm beginning to think I prefer the non-tab style of focus!) Like the others, I start at some baseline point for shutter speed depending on what film I'm shooting, the type of subject, the light and considering the amount of DoF I want. From there, most of the fine adjustment is to the aperture. All of this at generally done with the camera at my eye. Gross adjustments are made to the aperture, and corresponding changes to the shutter speed when a change in action or suject requires it, and I admit that most of the time I make these gross changes with the camera at my waist rather than eye.

:-),

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), March 02, 2002.

This is where I think the TTL version of the M6 is an improvement over the older shutter dial. I usually approach a situation as either an aperature-priority situation, or a shutter-priority situation, depending on which is more important for the subject. I either set the shutter then fine-tune with the aperature, or set the aperature and fine-tune with the shutter. The TTL shutter dial makes this last option easier. With the older shutter dial I tended to work in shutter priority mode only.

-- Ken Shipman (kennyshipman@aol.com), March 02, 2002.

The main thing to keep in mind with the Leica, IMHO, is that you don't need to adjust exposure for every shot. It's best to work in a mode where you adjust for the light and then shoot several frames before metering again. I tend to pick an exposure level before bringing the camera up to my eye...and then shoot away.

Cameras like the F5 encourage a different way of working, where you adjust exposure and focus on every frame. This is neither a better or worse way to work, just different.

-- Pete Su (psu_13@yahoo.com), March 02, 2002.

agree with Pete, although a similar camera can be used very diferently by each one, acording to what you do with it,for example: if portraits well you may need an external ligth meter or the build in is only used once or twice during a portrait sesion, if landscape then another way may be more suitable, if documentary, another way of having the rigth exposure set can be developed by every one, what's comon to all is that after the exposure is set, the action of frame, shoot, wind, frame, shoot, wind, frame, shoot, wind, becomes the most important part of the leica photography process, and that's the reason why I belive the new M7 adds at the end so little to M photography

-- r watson (al1231234@hotmail.com), March 02, 2002.

Tip for tabless focusing: run the outside (that faces your thumb)of your left index finger back and forth against the focusing ring underneath the lens. With all but the riciulously stiff 75/1.4 and most of the later 90/2's, it works better than a focusing tab.

-- Jay (infinitydt@aol.com), March 02, 2002.

I am new to Leica and I must say that I am in love, but I am also in love with my other cameras. They are tools that have very specific roles to play. I would not feel liberated by selling my 2 F5s, my Hasselblad X-Pan, My RZ67, My F3HP, F2, or F1. I am also quite fond of my Olympus E- 10. I know I am a camera junkie but I need them all.

Stuart Babcock

-- stuart babcock (stubab@camcomp.com), March 02, 2002.

Thanks to everyone for your help, you have all certainly given me plenty to think about!

-- Nigel Croxford (nigel@ncroxford.freeserve.co.uk), March 02, 2002.

not sure which hand to use to make adjustments. Do the seasoned users out there have any tips on the best way to operate the camera?

You just find your own best way by using your camera - a LOT. Practice, practice, practice. Once you get the ergonomics down then it's time to learn more advanced techniques like scale focusing using tabbed lenses and judging the light by eye. The matrix metering of the F5 is nice, no doubt, but no match for the super-matrix meter that resides between your ears.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), March 02, 2002.

Nigel. I had a nikon F5, 17-35 and 85/1.4 before going to Leica 3 months ago. Best decision "I" ever made. The deal is this: 1. Leica costs up to 100% more for up to a 5-20% increase in quality depending on the lens. 2. The Leica is more difficult to use and is mainly deigned for Landscape and people photography. 3. Going from the F5 to an M6/7 isn't like going from camera to camera. It's like going from Car to Bicycle.

Do your research, try the camera and compare results before making the big move.

Good luck

-- kristian (leicashot@hotmail.com), March 02, 2002.

As a 20-year manula and auto focus Nikon user (FE, FE2, F3, and most recently a N90S)I recently dumped all of my Nikon gear in favor of the M6TTL and R7 and 50mm Summicron-M and 50mm Summicron-R, and have had no regrets thus far. WIder and longer lenses will be added soon. First, I believe from my own experience that the Leica lenses deliver a superior and unique image(assuming you nail the manual focus and exposure settings), and gets me "back to basics" in terms on slowing down a bit, thinking more about what I'm doing during the photo composition and mechanical workings of the camera, and thinking once again about photographic rules like depth of field and exposure. This is a nice change as compared to carrying 25 pounds worth of plastic-coated auto focus equipment, and up to 12 AA batteries running the flash and motor drive. It seems that in order to master a new auto focus Japanese camera, the manual devotes most of its many pages at how to turn what dial, and how many fingers it takes to simultaneously push so many buttons. Its nothing more than a very high-tech, $1,000 - $2,000 point and shoot that has so many attributes that I never use. I think this is the marketing mentality created by these camera manufacters - everyone thinks they need a pro- level photo system that can freeze the image of a bullet shooting through the apple. But 99% of us never need these new gadgets. Sort of like trading in your 2001 Corvette for the 2002 model, because the newest one has 15 more horsepower. With my Leica R7 and M6 instructions manuals, I feel that the elementary essence of Photography 101 lies very close to the surface of these cameras' operating procedures. In conclusion, I started with a manual SLR Canon TX, have been through the auto focus phase, and have now gravitated back to what I consider to be the heart and soul of photography, via the Leica system.

-- Steve Brantley (sbrantley@nccommerce.com), March 02, 2002.

steve, me too. ;)

-- Travis koh (teckyy@hotmail.com), March 03, 2002.

Nigel,

I also had your experience of being "all fingers and thumbs trying to adjust shutter speed and aperture when the camera is at my eye" and I think the answer to it is, once you have set the lens aperture, to position the fingers of your left hand so that you are holding the focus ring. As Pete Su says: "You don't need to adjust exposure for every shot. It's best to work in a mode where you adjust for the light and then shoot several frames before metering again."

-- Ray Moth (ray_moth@yahoo.com), March 03, 2002.