I have a 1986 Volvo wagon, 240 DL, 4 cyl., automatic. Usually a great running car with over 200,000 miles on it. Stopped running when I was out driving in it and later that day, my husband went to pick it up and it started right up and ran well for another 2 days. Then one morning started it up and went out and now won't start. It tries and has all the starting power. We have had a new timing belt, new distribuator, new rotor cap . Is there something in the distribuator that should be replaced that we aren't aware of ?? Fuel pump is working well..checked all the fuses..checked the wiring...all is in good shape. Wasn't bad gas...battery is pretty new..Anyone have any ideas for us to try ??? Thanks !!!

-- Helena (windyacs@npacc.net), February 27, 2002

Answers

does it ahve spark?,, you said new distrubuator,, whole assembly?,,Im wondering if the shaft is broke,, getting fuel at the carb? fuse link? need more info

-- Stan (sopal@net-port.com), February 27, 2002.

Have you checked your fuel filter? What kind of a choke do you have on it? It could stick shut on you. I'm not up on Volvo's. These are some of the problems I've encountered.

-- Herb (hwmil@aol.com), February 27, 2002.

I had a Pontiac Wagon with 240,000 miles and one day it just stopped starting. It would crank and crank but not start. I don't remember the name of the part but it did cost $140.00.

-- Ken in Maine (Kenjan@pivot.net), February 27, 2002.

If it is fuel injected there should be an air bleed somewhere near the top of the engine that looks like a tire valve stem. Take out the core and turn the key to run and see if fuel comes up. Secondly, look for a burnt electrical connector by unpluging each one, corrosion also, one at a time. Try cranking it in neutral, if it starts look to the transmission lockout switch. Does it have an electrical fuel pump inside of the tank? Look for a reset button on either side of the firewall, thats about all I can think of for now.

-- mitch hearn (moopups@citlink.net), February 27, 2002.

P.S., turn the key to run and wait a few minutes, does the ignition coil get too hot to touch?

-- mitch hearn (moopups@citlink.net), February 27, 2002.

Is there a modulator in the distributor? Electronic ignition modulator? (can't remember name) I went thru 4 of them before I got a good one. Cranks and cranks, sounds like it is out of gas. It'll just start right up a couple hours later, or leave you stranded anywhere. You gotta wait till it feels like starting. I got one made in America with a lifetime warranty at Parts America, never a problem anymore. The ones at Auto Zone were no good (Mexico, Tiawan) Once or twice it would die while driving, but usually just wouldn't start.

-- Cindy in KY (solidrockranch@msn.com), February 27, 2002.

Not to insult your intelligence, but an easy way to check if you have spark is to unscrew a spark plug, reattach it to the wire, let it dangle and turn the key. This is done best if it is dark outside. If you have a little spark on the plug, you will then know that your problem is probably fuel.

-- clove (clovis97@Yahoo.com), February 28, 2002.

I've owned and worked on several older Volvos, but newist one was still pre computer version(1981 I think). If one of those, I would say fuel filter, fuel pump, and then ignition module, ignition coil and distributer cap/rotor. Also older volvo 240 series had funny resistor thingys on end of plug wires. I've had these go bad although ususally only one at a time. New parts dont always guarentee good parts. I'd bet on ignition module if you have one, but you are going to be unhappy when you price a new one. On pre computer versions, I modified an older GM module (less than $20)by mounting it with dielectric grease to bottom of an old aluminum skillet (to act as heat sink) and substituted it. Ran fine. New Bosch module was couple hundred dollars. Hopefully later modules are cheaper although maybe main computer took over this function, as I said I am not familiar with computerized Volvos. As others have suggested, look for spark first. Ground bottom of plug against bare metal ground. If you see spark, can eliminate ignition for most part.As to fuel,just because a gush of fuel comes out of disconnected line, doesnt mean everything is ok. Fuel pressure needs to be checked with a gauge as per the manual. You cant judge just by looking.

-- HermitJohn (hermit@hilltop_homestead.zzn.com), February 28, 2002.

Dang they've started limiting size of individual posting for windbags like me I guess. I should mention that ignition module on '76-'81 240's anyway was on passenger side fender not in distributor. As with any electronic ignition, there is a reluctor and pickup coil inside distributor under rotor.Both of these could go bad also(usually pickup coil). And check ignition coil usually mounted on passenger fender especially tower of it where spark wire fits. Can get corrosion here. I mentioned fuel pressure as entire injection on older cars like I had was driven by fuel pressure generated by powerful (and very expensive)fuel pump mounted next to gas tank. A smaller pump was in tank to prime main pump. I think computerized Volvos went to electronic computer controlled injection but proper pressure is still important. I mention all these things but in my experience it was rare for Volvo to actually require expensive repair. Usually some disconnected wire or corroded this or that, in other words some little thing. It might be hard to locate, but cheap to fix once found.

-- HermitJohn (hermit@hilltop_homestead.zzn.com), February 28, 2002.

Shoot a squirt of starting fluid into the carb. If it starts then quits: the problem is fuel delivery (pump, filter, lines, senndinng unit or carb, possibly choke or vacume leak, lines). Next, if it wont start with that mmetod, grab a spark plug wire and turn the engine over. If it shocks you, you have spark. If it doesnt- you dont have spark. If you dont have spark, timing, distruibutor, bad wiring, coil could be culprits. If you have spark and fuel, look at an intermittent problem like a bad wire, or your plugs are fouled/ bad (not intermittent).

-- kevin (Vantravlrs@aol.com), February 28, 2002.

My old Volvo started having simlar problems and the mechanic I took it to (Volvo speciallist) said the after about 10-15 years, Volvo wiring started to go bad (something about the insulation on the wires degrading). In any case, it turned out that most of the intermitant problems were caused by the wiring shorting out random things at random times. Have this poss. checked out as well. Re-wiring costs bucks.

-- Soni (thomkilroy@hotmail.com), February 28, 2002.

Clove said let the sparkplug dangle. Won't work, the plug must be grounded to the system then you should get spark.

-- Mel Kelly (melkelly@webtv.net), February 28, 2002.

Check your fuel pump relay. Resolder it, if unsure what I mean got to www.brickboard.com for instructions on the rwd forum.

-- (capefearless@yahoo.com), April 14, 2002.

Buy a Toyota.

-- Tonto (jk6@netscape.net), April 23, 2002.

Either check the fuse controlling the fuel pump (it may have come loose) or regap your spark plugs. I had this similar (starting) problem happen with my Volvo twice(!) and each time the problem was remedied by one of the above.

-- Carmen Cerra (cman@iastate.edu), April 28, 2002.