Hi,I have a question.I have a vivitar 283 flash and want to reduce the output by 1 stop or 2 stops.How do I do this with this flash?

Thanks.

-- Debbie (grumpylass@hotmail.com), February 10, 2002

Answers

move the dial sensor on front to blue from purple, red from blue, yellow from red, each color 'down' is a stop. mike

-- mike (thearea19@aol.com), February 10, 2002.

OR.adjust the film speed dial.If you are using 400 asa,set the film dial to 800 asa.My idea is better and easier than mikes.

-- Harry (harryblat@hotmail.com), February 10, 2002.

There's really only 2 ways to reduce 283 output - by closing down the lens aperature from what the flash "thinks" you've set, or by closing down the "auto thyristor" dial on the front of the flash.

Start with the calculator dial on the side of the flash. This is just a handy calculator and in-of-itself has no effect on flash operation. Set your film ISO - say for example you're using ISO 100 film. Let's say also that your subject is 35 ft away from the camera. The calculator tells you that under "normal" circumstances you should use f/2.8 and the "yellow" thyristor dial setting to cover your subject.

To reduce the flash effect by one stop either close your aperature down 1 stop to f/4 *OR* close down the thyristor dial 1 stop to the "red" setting. To reduce the output by two stops, close down the aperature to f/4 *AND* close down the thyristor to the "red" setting.

A better alternative would be to get the LumiQuest bounce deflector. With this deflector attached to the flash, you leave the aperature and thyristor settings at the calculator recommendations, but you swivel the flash head straight up into the deflector. Bouncing the light this way normally reduces effective output 1 or 2 stops, depending on subject distance. It also diffuses the light - spreads it out better for a softer effect. You need to experiment.

-- Ken Shipman (kennyshipman@aol.com), February 10, 2002.

I'll assume that you mean your flash is outputting a stop or two more light than you want at any given setting. There are a few ways you can do it with a basic auto (non-TTL) flash like the Vivitar 283, and I'll use my Sunpak 383 as an example:

1) Mess around with the lens aperture at any given flash aperture. For example, my Sunpak 383 has three auto settings at ISO 100: f2, f4, and f8. You can shave a stop or two off your flash exposure by setting your lens aperture one or two stops smaller than your flash setting, e.g. if you have your flash at f2, set your lens at f2.8 or f4; if your flash is set at f4, set your lens at f5.6 or f8, etcetera etcetera etcetera. Then you drag out your shutter speed to maintain ambient exposure.

2) You can use your flash on manual and compensate as needed. For example, on my Sunpak 383 there is a linear distance scale on the back with corresponding aperture settings for any given distance, correlated to film speed. There is also a switch for full, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, and 1/16 power on manual. There are two ways to do it in this case (and I would only use this for stationary subjects) - EITHER set the flash ISO to a stop or two faster than the film you've actually got loaded, OR slide your manual setting from full to 1/2 or 1/4 power. Then focus and read the distance off the lens, and set your lens for the aperture that the scale tells you is correct for that distance.

3) If the distance scale on your flash is missing or confusing and you're mathematically inclined, you can calculate exposure if you know the guide number of your flash and the distance to your subject (using the lens focus setting).

There may be other ways to do it but these are the methods I use with my Sunpak 383, which is operationally very similar to your Vivitar.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), February 10, 2002.

Hmmmm...I think Mike is right - to close it down you need to move from purple to blue to red to yellow, 1 stop for each shift, without opening up your aperature. I had it backwards. I usually use the LumiQuest so I'm out of practice shifting it this way. Also note that when you jump from blue to red, there's a gap of 2 stops, not 1 stop. I don't know why Vivitar made it this way.

-- Ken Shipman (kennyshipman@aol.com), February 10, 2002.

Vivitar makes a module called a VP-1 that replaced the automatic sensor on the front of the camera. The camera now becomes fully manual but with a range of power output from full to 1/16th power. It is infinitely variable between these settings. Pro's have been using these with VP-1's for year as a poor man's studio system. Call B&H. Alternatively, put a few sheets of white paper over the front until you get the power output you need based on Polaroid or a flash meter.

Kirk

-- kirk tuck (kirktuck@kirktuck.com), February 10, 2002.

Kirk is correct. I have two 283's and two modules. I have used them for decades. About as flexible as you can get, once you learn to use them.

Art

-- Art (AKarr90975@aol.com), February 10, 2002.

I've used 283's since I can't remember. There are many ways to reduce output , look at all that came before this...they are all good and correct; however, for me the easiest and most foolproof...go out and getFOR FREE a sample book of Lee gel filters and in it you will find 1/8,1/4,1/2, 1, 2,4 and 8 ND filters that are a perfect fit for the 283 face. Shoot as normal but reduce output as needed...free of cost...free of remembering which dial or knob to turn to what new setting.

-- Steven Alexander (alexpix@worldnet.att.net), February 10, 2002.

Another, often overlooked, accessory for the 283 was the Low Voltage Pack [LVP]. Unlike the High Voltage Pack [HVP], there's no expensive battery to buy. The LVP uses four D cells which provide for fast recycling, and easily changed power sources. They're still around if you look long enough.

-- Alec (alecj@bellsouth.net), February 10, 2002.