I am about to get my first Leica, The LHSA .72

Why do Leicas load film this way? Is tradition the reason? Is there a technical reason why this method is superior. Will the new model to be announced this month have the typical film loading method.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Jesse Kramer

-- Jesse Kramer (jesskramer@aol.com), February 07, 2002

Answers

I believe the theory is that at the time of its invention, this method was the best to insure flatness along the film plane.

-- Tom Nutter (tmnphotos@erols.com), February 07, 2002.

1 (and 2) Ye-e-es, tradition is some of the reason - the bottom loading goes right back to Barnack's prototypes as early as 1913.

3. Technical reason - in the original screw-mount bodies bottom-loading meant the camera back (in fact the whole shell) could be one piece, which made it sturdier. Once Leica added the swing-open pressure-plate in the Ms, it can be argued, some of that sturdiness disappeared anyway, although the Leica body/back is still thicker and heavier metal than most sheet-metal or plastic swing-open backs (compare them yourself). Some Leica history mavens may have more detailed info on tradition vs. technology.

4. Depends on which rumor you hear or believe - IF, as I've heard, the M7 is essentially an M6 with an electronic shutter in the same space as the mechanical shutter, the loading should be the same. I could be wrong.

Personally, after 9 months I now find the Leica-M loading a strong point - much easier to just drop/slide the film leader in than trying to fit the leader tip into one of those slotted plastic reels (a la FM2 et al). I can't remember the last time I misloaded one of the Ms (well over 100 rolls ago now) - while I have misloaded the "autoload/ motorized" Hexar RF twice in two weeks through not getting the film tip in exactly the right spot. Do-oooh!

My times to load: the Hexar (or Contax G2/Aria) correctly (closed back to closed back): 12 seconds

the M4-2/P: 18 seconds

a traditional swing-back SLR (Leica SL, Nikon F/F3/FM2): 25+ seconds.

-- Andy Piper (apidens@denver.infi.net), February 07, 2002.

I agree with Andy that loading an M6 is faster and easier than having to thread the film into the slot on the take-up spool of an SLR, for instance, an R7 or an Olympus OM. Granted, the R8 is fastest of all but I even managed to misload that once!

The only real disadvantage to M6 camera loading, I find, is having to find somewhere to keep the base-plate while you do it. This is an even bigger nuisance if you're using a motor or RapidWinder - ever tried to hold one of those between your fingers or your teeth?

Once, realizing I needed expert guidance on this subject, I interrupted a rather busy and harrassed-looking professional Leica photographer, to ask him where I could stick my motor. His reply was unprintable but suffice it to say that, when I tried doing what he suggested, I found it both embarrassing and uncomfortable. ;-) YMMV

-- Ray Moth (ray_moth@yahoo.com), February 07, 2002.

i think the film-loading of Leica is no less difficult than an auto- SLR like the F5...you'll struggle on the first 5 rolls or so, but after that...it's a piece of cake. never had a misthread on the M6 since i bought it.

-- Dexter Legaspi (dalegaspi@hotmail.com), February 07, 2002.

The only real disadvantage to M6 camera loading, I find, is having to find somewhere to keep the base-plate while you do it.

There is a fix to this - you should be able to find a way to "leash" the baseplate to the right strap lug. How I do it is, I don't use a neckstrap for my M6, I just use a wrist strap attached to the left strap lug and have the camera in my palm, lens facing my thigh when not in use. This leaves the right strap lug free, to which I've attached an O-ring. Then, I screw one of those old-style leather wrist straps with 1/4" screw posts into the baseplate, and attach the wrist loop to the O-ring. So when I change the film I just leave the baseplate dangling.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), February 07, 2002.

There is a fix to this - you should be able to find a way to "leash" the baseplate to the right strap lug. How I do it is, I don't use a neckstrap for my M6, I just use a wrist strap attached to the left strap lug and have the camera in my palm, lens facing my thigh when not in use. This leaves the right strap lug free, to which I've attached an O-ring. Then, I screw one of those old-style leather wrist straps with 1/4" screw posts into the baseplate, and attach the wrist loop to the O-ring. So when I change the film I just leave the baseplate dangling.

...or you can just put it in your pants pocket or--gasp--place it on a nearby table. why would you have to make it complicated?

-- Dexter Legaspi (dalegaspi@hotmail.com), February 07, 2002.

...or you can just put it in your pants pocket or--gasp--place it on a nearby table. why would you have to make it complicated?

Er... um... gee... let me think... MAYBE SO I DON'T DROP IT??? Gasp! Ack! Whoa! Hang on there! Jesus, some people really need to have things spelled out for them don't they??

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), February 07, 2002.

OK Dexter, I'll try again, this time assuming you're trying to humor me rather than being a smart-assed jerkoff. The baseplate of the M6 is made of brass, which we all know is a very soft alloy (compare the brass top plates of most M3s, M2s, and M4s, vs the zinc-alloy of a well-used M6 - see the difference in dent severity?). Drop the baseplate just once, just so that the edge catches the floor, and you'll likely dent it enough that you might not be able to mount it back on the camera without a little plier-work. Yes, it's happened to me before, on a wooden floor, and turned a mint 0.85 non-TTL from a collectible into a user (not that I cared, but the delay in mounting the plate back on was a pain in the ass). If you shoot professionally and have to change film on the fly, it will likely happen to you. It's not a matter of if, but when. This solution took me exactly $2 and 5 minutes to implement. Hardly a complication and I don't worry about the baseplate anymore. Next time think about what you write BEFORE you write it, and maybe you'll figure things out before you make yourself look foolish. And even if you don't figure it out, if you ask politely you can't go wrong.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), February 07, 2002.

Next time think about what you write BEFORE you write it...

lighten up, man. and i'm not being a smart-ass--it's MY opinion; i don't see the value of having such setup even it costs a buck or takes 30 seconds to have it installed...IN MY OPINION it is not needed. do what you have to do...but writing such words is totally uncalled for.

-- Dexter Legaspi (dalegaspi@hotmail.com), February 07, 2002.

I read the reason was lower camera vibration than with a back that opens.

-- David Enzel (dhenzel@vei.net), February 07, 2002.