underexpose ilford pan 100

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hi all of you, my question now is if I underexpose by half stop would that give a richer warm tones and should I develop normally. Thanks in advance.

-- Daniel Baharal (dbaharal@zahav.net.il), February 05, 2002

Answers

Underexposing will block the shadows. If you like to experiment OVEREXPOSE in steps of 1/2. Print the one you like.

-- Marc Leest (classicphoto@leest.net), February 06, 2002.

Warm tones on the negative? Huh?
The warmth or coolness of tone in the print is totally unaffected by the exposure of the negative.

-- Pete Andrews (p.l.andrews@bham.ac.uk), February 07, 2002.

hi Mark,

but what happens on a bright sunny day? when there is more shadows on one side and it is too white on other parts?

-- Daniel Baharal (dbaharal@zahav.net.il), February 07, 2002.


are you mixing Print development with neg exposure? Print with suitable paper/developer or tone for 'warm' prints. Expose for shadows and develop highlights.

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@unite.com.au), February 07, 2002.

"Expose for shadows and develop highlights."

what do you mean to develop highlights?

-- Daniel Baharal (dbaharal@zahav.net.il), February 07, 2002.



"expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" slight typo!

what this means is exposure controls shadow detail (you exposure will govern whether you capture details in shadow areas) and development controls contrast of the highlights, or dense areas on the negative (not enough development and you won't get seperation in those highlights)

Someone else will be able to expain this better :)

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@unite.com.au), February 07, 2002.


quote: but what happens on a bright sunny day? when there is more shadows on one side and it is too white on other parts? /quote;

Expose for the shadows - what not is recorded on a negative cannot be printed. - The situation you give is a clear example - Develop for the highlight. In a contrasty scene as you describe you must reduce contrast. This is done by reducing development about 15%.

So: expose 1/2 to 1 stop over but reduce development with 15%. For warmtone prints use Ilford Multigrade Warmtone developed in Agfa Neutol WA. Good luck.

-- Marc Leest (classicphoto@leest.net), February 07, 2002.


Thanks Marc and Nigel. I think i got it.

-- Daniel Baharal (dbaharal@zahav.net.il), February 08, 2002.

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