Ken and Paul,Thanks for replying to the my question about storing grass clipings.I believe what you guys are saying towards keeping it compact and air tight,but am wondering how farmers put up haylage/silage without it getting moldy,I know most silos are not air tight.If you got a minute I would apreciate the info."My brain needs to know" Thanks much. Dave

-- Dave (duckthis1@maqs.net), February 02, 2002

Answers

Been quite a while since I have been on the farm. The big blue Havester (spelling?)silos you see on farms are airtight. The secret in most silos is the weight of the silage above causes compaction which drives out any air. Only the top surface may have rot and they are unloaded from the bottom. Haylage doesn't require anywhere near the airtightness of silage since it is less prone to rot or mold due to lower moisture content. I only remember the silo on the dairy farm in Husterford, WI. It was unloaded from the top by hand. Perhaps that kept it OK since it was used before the top layer had a chance to rot or mold.

Perhaps there is a farmer on the forum who can add his experiences.

-- Ken S. in WC TN (scharabo@aol.com), February 03, 2002.

Most haylage is drier than grass clippings, but I'd say it molds faster than corn silage. A dairy farmer friend I used to help would "cap" his haylage with a wagon (20tonnes) of green chopped corn. The haylage is also often treated with a bacterial inoculant to promote the correct bacteria growth to ensile it. Bottom unloaders are more frequently airtight silos, the rest mostly use top unloaders working on the priciple that the open face of the silo won't spoil faster than it's used. All silos or bags use the same therory and are sized according to the number of animals being fed. Grass clippings are probably too wet to ensile properly but it's worth a try. Don't just look for mold check that the clippings aren't slimy. Slime=spoilage spoilage could be insignifigant or it could lead to Listeria.

-- Ross (amulet@istar.ca), February 03, 2002.

I'd just treat the grass clippings like alfalfa silage. After cutting, let them dry out for a day or so before you put it up. Most silos nowadays are the airtight kind. It's like a process of controlled fermintation and the lack of oxygen keeps it from going bad. Liquid lechate is common so don't get too alarmed if that happens. You can use that for fertilizer, very high in nitrogen so be careful you don't burn whatever plants you use it on.

Top unloading silos have killed more than a few farmers through asphyxiation.

-- Dave (something@somewhere.com), February 03, 2002.

The blue metal silos are aittight - they have bladder bags on top to help with air expantion/cotraction. They unload from the bottom.

Concrete/block silos are also airtight where it counts - along the bottom & sides. We had to quit using the silo here on the farm 30 years ago - the plaster gave out, too much spoilage along the walls as air went through the concrete. Too old to spend money replastering it.

The outdoor bunker silos are sealed on top - plastic tarp, layer of hay, layer of tallow or molassas. Those that are not sealed lose 30% to spoilage.

The plastic silo bags of course are airtight, and you need to watch for rodent damage, etc. & reseal with duct tape if they get any holes.

When you open up a silo, you need to use 3-6" of silage every day (depending on how compressed it is) so that you use it faster than what it would spoil. This is why most concrete silos are top unloading, you just shave a few inches off the top every day.

For corn silage moisture content should be 65-70% I think. I do not know much about hay silage, and nothing about haylage. Too dry & it doesn't 'pickle' right, too wet & you get a lot of juice & not very good feed.

--->Paul

-- paul (ramblerplm@hotmail.com), February 03, 2002.

Hay silage and haylage would be the same thing. Typically if your making hay silage you crank down the conditioner rolls of your haybine (mower conditioner)to add crimp to the stalk and so more "ensiling" bacteria can enter the plant. It shatters leaves but they still end up in the silo (or bale) as it doesn't dry down enough to lose them. nowe I forget the optimum moisture for haylage just now, I'll find out if it's important. You'd need a moisture tester to be sure anyhow.

-- Ross (amulet@istar.ca), February 03, 2002.

Thanks much everybody,I'm gonna give it a try this coming summer.Dave

-- Dave (duckthis1@maqs.net), February 03, 2002.

the secret to silage type hay is that the hay needs dried and cured. So this is the important part of grass. I would have a arez where you stored it dry and then if you can airate it every so often. Mold and mildew will be in the grass to begin with so the use of chemicals can not be done for feeding back to livestock or chickens. Good clean no chemical grass and keep it loosely confined in a covered hay barn. It has to be dry when stored to keep it good.Back in the old days if hay was baled or put in the barn wet it always molded. So the hay was competely fry and turned a couple times before gathered or baled. Glenda L. heywood http://www.nationalpoultrynews.com

-- GL Heywood (frizzlebird@yahoo.com), February 03, 2002.

The topic is hay silage not "hay" your right about hay dried and cured and it stores fine in a barn. Hay silage or haylage is a different comodity it is stored wet inoculated with benificail bacteria and kept in an oxygen limiting or exclusive storage system. Bags or silos, bunk type or tower air tight or air limiting. It's diffrent from the hay your describing Glenda. Good hay will replace haylage any day.

-- Ross (amulet@istar.ca), February 03, 2002.