Can anyone recommend me a flash to use on a Leica IIIF especially? (I use a R4, CL, and Bessa series too)... I'm thinking strongly about purchasing either the Leica CF or SF20 (especially) but wasn't quite sure about getting it because of potential problems with the Leica IIIF. I know that most screw-mount have low shutter speed sync (for me it's 1/20 I believe). Thanks for your advice? (By the way I don't need a large flash like a Metz and something reasonably priced student-wise.)

-- Alfie Wang (leica_phile@hotmail.com), January 20, 2002

Answers

I use a Vivitar 2800. I've used the same unit for about 17 years, with Nikon, Canon, Contax SLR, Contax G, Leica-M and Leicaflex SLs. For bounce, fill-flash, night long-time-plus-flash, even studio umbrella work - you name it. Self-contained undedicated autoexposure that works.

It has a PC cord as well as a hot shoe, so it operates on my SL and will function (in auto or manual) with a screw-mount (or M2/3/4, for that matter).

The size of a Leica-M body - takes 4 easy-to-find AA batteries. There were (and may still be) kits available with 5 colored plastic snap-in fresnel lenses that take coverage out to 28mm (although I routinely shoot fill with a 21 without objectionable falloff. The 'white' filter will also serve to hold pieces of gel filter on the front, if you don't like Vivitar's collection of colors.

-- Andy Piper (apidens@denver.infi.net), January 20, 2002.

I second the Vivitar 2800 recommendation. DAH uses one and manages to get decent results (at least in Spain). Its cheap, the user interface is good, and you won't waste your time polishing it with mink oil every second day.

;-)

-- John (ouroboros_2001@yahoo.com), January 21, 2002.

I had a Vivitar 2800 for a while last year. A good unit to be sure, but its Achilles heel in terms of user interface is the auto- shutoff "feature". If you don't use the flash for about 2 minutes it will turn itself off. Not great if you're waiting for that perfect moment and when it comes, the flash doesn't go off! Vivitar informed me there's no way to disable it. I'd recommend the Sunpak 383 instead. It's about the same size but packs more power (GN 120) and features more f-stop settings (f/2, f/4, and f/8 at ISO 100). Also the gel system is better - the Vivitar's gels sort of "friction snap" in place and will wear out very quickly. The Sunpak's gels, although you have to buy them separately, mount by slide-lock on an adapter and is a more secure system.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), January 22, 2002.

Forgot to mention - the Sunpak 383 bounces AND swivels - the Vivitar 2800 just bounces.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), January 22, 2002.

I'm sorry for this piecemeal response, but I haven't had my morning coffee yet... I just recalled something else I discovered while testing the Vivitar 2800 vs Sunpak 383 last year, namely trigger voltage, i.e. voltage across the flash contacts when it fires. I measured the Sunpak 383 at about 4 volts. This is low enough that the Sunpak is safe to use even with modern Canon EOS electronic bodies (Canon USA warns that anything greater than 6 volts might damage the camera electronics). The Vivitar 2800, on the other hand, I measured at 150 volts. It might not seem to be too big a deal if you just use the 2800 with a mechanical camera like the IIIF or CL, but when I mentioned it in passing to a tech at International Camera Repair in Pasadena, he told me that with higher-discharge-voltage flash guns, the greater intensity and frequency of arcing across internal flash contacts will theoretically lead to faster failure times of the internal flash wiring even in an all-mechanical camera, as compared with using a low-discharge-voltage unit, everything else being equal. "Theoretically" is the key word here, but it's just another point in favor of the 383.

Standard disclaimers: I don't work for Sunpak, but am satisfied enough with the 383 that I own and abuse two of them. Both the Sunpak and Vivitar units I tested last year were new in box from Samy's in L.A. All this is, of course, FWIW... two cents, please.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), January 22, 2002.

I've used a Vivitar 225 for 25 years on all my non-electronic cameras (it has ss frying trigger voltage.) It is small, uses 2 AA's, has a guide number of 60, and the 2 auto ranges are right on. I also have a Sunpak 383. The recommended settings seem to be 1 stop too hot. The supplied sync cord is a POS - throw it away.

-- John F (johnfleetwood@hotmail.com), January 22, 2002.

John, I have the 21/24 diffuser permanently attached to the front of the reflector, it seems to work quite well in taming the output. If I shoot it naked it looks OK to me exposure wise, but with the increased specularity I can appreciate how it can look a little overexposed. Another problem is the closest distance at f/2 and ISO 100 - 2.3 meters, so when you approach this distance or shorter your chance of overexposure are higher. The diffuser helps in this case also, and if you want to get REALLY close there's an ND filter in the kit too.

-- Anon Terry (anonht@yahoo.com), January 25, 2002.

Thanks for the diffuser tip; I'll try it. I sometimes use frosted tape or surgical gloves over flashes in a pinch.

-- John F (johnfleetwood@hotmail.com), January 28, 2002.

I've used Vivitar 283 flashes for years and love them! As a small always-with-me flash I use the little 2500. It's a miniature 285 complete with variable angle of coverage, choice of 2 f-stop settings, and multi position bounce. It works off 2 AA batteries. It also has a clip-on fresnel lens for 28mm coverage which hinges up out of the way. Leave this in the open position when you use it for bounce and it will reflect just enough light forward to fill the shadows nicely. Of course they haven't made this in maybe 15 or 20 yearts but I've bought several on Ebay, one complete with box and instructions. You should be able to find one for about $25 on Ebay.

-- Al Kaplan (Preacherspop@aol.com), May 30, 2002.