"digital"lens for 6x9 formatgreenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread
hi i shoot mainly 6x9 color negative film and recently began using a linhof tk 23 camera with a 150mm sironar-n apo lens. i found that in some situations that my results felt too contrasty for my taste. i have been using a fuji 6x9 rf camera for many years with fuji 400 nph and never had a problem. then i switched to the new system (so as to have interchangeable lens) and the issue of contrast became a problem.in addition my typical print size is 20"x30" and larger and therefore i have become interested in the digital lenses as they offer high resolution ,but what about contrast? i am not a "novice" color printer and i do all my printing in my own lab on a roller trasnport machine but this problem confounds me. i have tried some "comparison" tests with my fuji versus the view camera set-up but as there is considerable difference in the focal lengths it is not that fair. also, i did test a fuji 150mm against the sironar and there was no appreciable difference. i am very interested to hear from others with actual experience as there are many on this forum and really want first-hand practical information. i thought the lens coatings might make a difference but that has not proven the case at least with my tests using modern lenses.
-- robert (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 09, 2002
you should try Kodak portra 400 NC, i beleive digital lens to be even more sharper than your sironar N ! Maybe non coated lens from fuji...
-- dg (email@example.com), January 10, 2002.
It just remember me on: "Never change a winning team"! But I would then take a very little soft filter in front of the lens thad should save the problem. Good luck!
-- Armin Seeholzer (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 10, 2002.
Robert, I also print my own color neg and don't want very much contrast. I also don't want highly saturated color. Nice dead color for me! I use Portra 160 NC rollfilm and it;s just right, even with new, sharp Schneider lenses. But of course contrast is most affected by the lighting of the original scene. To get what I want, I often shoot pre- dawn or at dusk when there are no shadows, or on overcast or softly sunny days. If you have to shoot on those brittle, sunny days, the best way to reduce contrast is with pre-exposure (see Ansel on this) - -- bring up the shadow threshold by pre- (or post-) exposing the image either through a diffuser as Armin suggests, or against a blank card or textureless wall, metered to Zone II or III, then make your regular exposure. It does work.
-- Sandy Sorlien (email@example.com), January 18, 2002.
""Never change a winning team""
Hope you are not referring to sports.
All winning teams change, baseball, football, crew, tennis, racing, etc.
Athletes and machines get older and newer athletes and machines are always being introduced.
The Yankees last year catattest to the truthfulness of ""Never change a winning team""
-- Bob Salomon (firstname.lastname@example.org), January 19, 2002.