In a recent thread someone referenced the CameraQuest site for tips on buying an M rangefinder. The M buyer tips on that site mentioned that you should not see the second shutter curtain seam after the shutter was tripped and if you could, it was a sign the shutter needed service.

I acquired a used M2 about 10 years ago. In that time I've used it steadily, but lightly - probably less than two dozen rolls of film. I just finished out the roll of film that's been in it for a few weeks and checked the shutter and found the curtain seam lacks about 2mm of completely slipping into the edge of the film gate after the shutter is closed. I have no idea how long it's been doing that, maybe as long as I've owned it. It doesn't appear to let light leak through, and there has been no apparent effect on exposures. What type of service is this indicating is needed? Is a minor adjustment or a major overhaul required? I'm some distance from any city large enough to have a camera repair shop, so I'd be relying on a mail away. Thanks.

-- Tod Hart (tghart@altavista.com), December 21, 2001

Answers

On my M2 you cannot see the seam. However the camera seems to be working well for you so I do not think you have to rush any repair. You have had your M2 ten years without a CLA and who knows how long it may have been before that, so I would think about sending it off soon.

-- John Collier (jbcollier@powersurfr.com), December 21, 2001.

Tod man is not the only one who benefits from exercise. Before tou rush out and spend your money on a CLA why not play with it for a day or two while you are watching TV or whatever just advance and snap away at all shutter speeds get every thing moving around in the mechanical end you cant hurt it. When they set for long periods of time things get stickey and dry. If this works then you save the cost of the repair if not all you are out is a little time.

-- Al Henry (J Henry@provide.net), December 22, 2001.

My M4 also has the seam visible, but I have no trouble with it yet. From time to time I check the shutter from 1s to 1/1000s and also do a comparsion against my old Leicaflex and M6. Only minor differecies so far. /Lars

-- Lars Kristensen (krislars@algonet.se), December 22, 2001.

Tod, try this to check light-tightness of first and second shutter curtains: load up with film; trip shutter with lens cap on, do not wind on; remove lens, hold camera towards light source for about 20 secs. This is your first exposure. Now cover lensmount (with capped lens, or just hold against your body), advance film to pre-tension shutter; remove lens and expose camera to light source for 20 secs again (your second exposure); cover lens, trip shutter and advance a couple of frames....phew! This should reveal the condition of each shutter curtain (pretensioned and after the shutter has fired). If the shutter is completely light-tight, both frames should be entirely blank when developed.

Mechanical tolerances ensure shutter speeds may not be entirely accurate as stated, but if your exposures in all lighting conditons seem reasonable, who cares? Check for slow gear noise on speeds slower than 1/30 (you are supposed to hear it).

-- David Killick (Dalex@inet.net.nz), December 27, 2001.

I had an M3 for a while which also showed the seam. It did not appear to affect the accuracy of the shutter though, and I didn't notice any light leaks.

-- Niels H. S. Nielsen (nhsn@ruc.dk), December 27, 2001.