I just read an earlier post about Ektachrome IR film and technique and am curious about B&W IR photography. What are your preferred films? And what about focusing? I don't see the red dot (not to be confused with The Red Dot) on the lens that Gavin refers to for focus compensation. So, then, how do I focus for IR? Also, I know that I need a red filter. Does Leica make one for the 35 Summilux ASPH? I believe it's the E46 diameter.

Any tips or tricks you can share are appreciated.

-- Luke Dunlap (luked@mail.utexas.edu), December 11, 2001

Answers

Also, can I have this processed at a good custom lab, or should I expect to do it myself? Is it prohibitively costly to process?

-- Luke Dunlap (luked@mail.utexas.edu), December 11, 2001.

I haven't shot a lot of IR, but I prefer Kodak's HIE (I think it's the only one with true infrared sensitivity--the Konica and Ilford films just have increased red and near-IR sensitivity). I haven't used the Leica for IR shooting, so I can't really answer your question regarding focusing. With a wide angle at moderate to small apertures, DOF should take care of it. To get the IR look, you will need to use a deep red filter (I think I have the #25 red).

Using a handheld meter, an EI of about 50 to 100 gives a reasonably good exposure most of the time; if metering through the red filter, I use an EI of about 320 to 800. The amount of IR in the scene/reflected by subjects doesn't necessarily match what you'd expect from seeing the visible light, so bracketing is a good idea.

In the shot below, her shirt was actually black:

-- Mike Dixon (mike@mikedixonphotography.com), December 11, 2001.

Almost forgot: given an appropriate developer, it's no more difficult to develop than regular b&w film. A b&w lab should have no problem with it.

-- Mike Dixon (mike@mikedixonphotography.com), December 11, 2001.

Interesting question, I don't see any IR-index on my Summicron 50 either.

If I may follow up Lukes question with another: Is it a No-no to bring IR-film such as the Kodak during flights where it will be submitted to X-ray machines?

-- Peter Olsson (peter.olsson@lulebo.se), December 11, 2001.

In the shot below, her shirt was actually black

Good you mentioned that, Mike...;o) Nice shot.

-- Lutz Konermann (lutz@konermann.net), December 11, 2001.

Be aware that you must load and unload your camera in total darkness. Just popping the back even after the film is rewound into the cassette will fog your film. I get the best effects with an opaque (visually) #87 filter.

-- Phil Stiles (Stiles@metrocast.net), December 11, 2001.

-- Phil Stiles (Stiles@metrocast.net), December 11, 2001.

The best filter to use is the 87B. B&W makes them in 39mm, 43mm, 46mm and larger. I bought mine from B&H who STOCKS them.

You can't see through the 87B. That's why SLR's are tough to use with the 87B so most folks use the red #29 which is dark but viewable through an SLR.

Rangefinders are the best type camera to use with the 87B filter.

One trick I use is to put an 87B filter over the FLASH to expose IR film indoors at night.

-- Tony Oresteen (aoresteen@lsqgroup.com), December 11, 2001.

Hi Luke, Leica lenses are corrected into the infrared. Shoot away. As to Kodak's color infrared, you'll need a #12 deep yellow filter to filter out the blue cast of the film. With the # 12 the images produced will not be overly cool. Keep in mind that it is a very snappy rendition this film produces. Great for rainy or hazy days. On Very sunny days, bracket. Finally, don't send this film to Kodak or any other processing firm that uses infrared sensors on their processors. I did and the roll came back totally fogged. Good Luck, Peter

-- Peter McDonough (31416@mediaone.net), December 11, 2001.