I purchased some EIR (Ektachrome Infrared Film) recently and plan on toying around with it. Has anyone used any recently? According to the Kodak web site, use an EI of 100 with a #12 filter. I do not have a #12 filter, how much will this affect the images? This is not technical work, but some experimenting to look for heat loss on buildings in sub-zero climates. I understand the film uses a red shift, IR appears as red and other colors are also shifted. Comments and suggestions please?

MJ

-- Mark A. Johnson (logic@gci.net), December 09, 2001

Answers

It will not show heat loss in buildings. You will need much more expensive and sophisticated equipment for that. Do a search in google for infrared photography--there are many sites dedicated to it with any info you may be interested in. A search at "photo.net" will also give you much info already in the archives there.

-- Andrew Schank (aschank@flash.net), December 09, 2001.

to get the infrared (or more precise: near-infrared) effect you need a very dark red filter, which blocks out most visible light. the cheapest one you can get it ilfords gel filter for cokin adapter. it was developed for their sfx film. you should get it for about $10. if IR suits you, you can always get a proper glass filter later.

-- stefan randlkofer (geesbert@yahoo.com), December 09, 2001.

I used to use Ektachrome Infrared but haven't for many years. For nice scenic photos, it can be very interesting! It is used for ecology and remote sensing as vegetation shows up red due to the fluorescent emission of the leaves. Different types of green vegetation can be distinguished by the shade of red, ranging from orange to purple. In the winter, one will generally get a less interesting result, mainly red and blue in the images.

The correct filter can be important for best color rendition. I remember buying a G filter by Hoya because my Nikon filters were too far off from the deep yellow/light orange required. (I think a G is a 12, or possibly a 15. In any case, the G was the filter recommended for the older Infrared Ektachrome.) Of course, one can use a dark orange filter or a yellow one for interesting effects too. The important point is to cut out the blue light. As I remember, all three color layers are sensitive to blue, the normally blue layer is sensitive to green, the normally green layer is sensitive to red, and the normally red sensitive layer is sensitive to infrared.

One could use a dark red infrared filter, but that would miss the whole point of color infrared film and the images would consist just of shades of red, from very dark red to pink. One might as well use black and white infrared film.

But, as another person said, I'm not sure you will find out anything about heat loss from buildings. I've taken Infrared Ektachrome pictures in the winter, near zero, and not seen much that I think might be useful for sensing heat loss.

-- Thomas Herbert (therbert@miami.edu), December 09, 2001.

Mark:

I agree with Thomas' comments regarding EIR film. I have recently shot scenic photos with EIR but have no experience shooting heat loss in buildings.

There are some resources on the WEB (as Andrew pointed out) and the one I found most helpful is Gavin Wrigley's site: Coolmint Infrared Photography (http://www.coolmint.co.uk/infrared/). He covers both black and white and color infrared photography and has comparison pictures with different filtration. I use his exposure information and my pictures have always been right on the money.

Also review Kodak's technical sheet on EIR--it's very helpful. EIR isn't cheap: $20-25 for a 36 exposure roll and $10 for processing and mounting. That works out to around $1 per slide! Any planning you can do ahead of shooting to maximize the number of successes will work to your benefit!

Some tips from personal experience: 1. Load and unload your camera in total darkness. If you cannot take a reliable black bag into the field, you are limited to shooting 36 exposures before changing rolls indoors. I shy away from using my R4 with the film identification window in the camera back and instead use my M3, M4, or SL.

2. Take or send your film to a professional film processor. My lab has to turn off all of the infrared sensors in the area of the processing machine otherwise the film will be fogged. My lab processes my EIR in the last film run of the day. Kodak specifically warns against processing where there are infrared sensors on.

3. The film pressure plate in your Leica should be the smooth solid type (M2/M3/M4/SL/SL2). I am not familiar with other Leica models' film pressure plates. Other EIR users have reported that the dimpled or patterned film pressure plate has recorded a design on the film! I have not confirmed this and at $1/slide I don't intend to.

4. If you have a lens (such as the 19mm Elmarit-R) with filters in a built-in filter turret--you're in luck--the yellow works with EIR.

5. Although I have never corrected the focus on my lens for infrared, you can experiment. I focus and shoot and my images are very sharp.

6. Keep a shooting record and when you get your slides back you can repeat your successes and build on them!

After you have gone through all this fussiness behind the lens, it is up to you what you put in front of your lens. EIR gives you creative results and you will be rewarded by experimenting! Karin Szekessy has contributed to Leica Fotografie and her color infrared figure photography is beautiful. I just threw that fact in here in case you have to finish up your roll of EIR and need subject matter ideas! ;)

Have fun!

-- Dan Talbot (dhtalbot@aol.com), December 10, 2001.