I'm thinking of getting an M6, and also the SF20 flash. This might be a bit of a newbie question, but I haven't had much flash experience and I'd like your help. How much would I benefit from the M6 TTL Vs. M6 classic? I really have no idea so please explain it to me. If I have the flash on the M6 classic, would I need to manually set the flash, whereas I don't for the TTL? Or am I wrong?

Any help appreciated. Thx.

-- Rick Moreno (leicanewbie@hotmail.com), December 02, 2001

Answers

Rick,

I have never used or owned a M6 Classic, but have owned a number of manual SLRs. I do own, however, a M6 TTL and the SF-20 flash.

With the SF-20 on the M6 TTL, the only setting you must make on the flash is to ensure that the flash mode switch is set to "TTL" and that the the flash synchronization speed on the M6 TTL is set at, or below, the 1/50s indicator. The SF-20 reads the film's ISO from the M6 and the duration of the flash is determined during exposure by reading the light off of the film. Obviously, you or subject can move out of range of the flash for the aperture that you have selected. You can press the "aperture" button on the SF-20 and set the aperture to match what you have set on your lens. This will give you an idea of the maximum distance.

With a manual camera, you must select an aperture on the camera, set the film's ISO on the flash, and specify the same aperture (or aperture / distance range) on the flash. When you change aperture or flash-to-subject distance, you must ensure that the camera and the flash are in "agreement."

Using the "+" and "-" flash exposure correction buttons on the SF-20 you easily balance flash fill with ambient light, rather than changing ISO settings, etc. These settings are also handy for compensating for overly bright or dark subjects.

I have mixed feelings about various types of automation that have appeared in cameras; however, TTL flash is most excellent IMHO.

Good luck.

-Nick

-- Nicholas Wybolt (nwybolt@earthlink.net), December 02, 2001.

The simple answer is you have it basically correct.

The longer answer is: If you are going to be using flash on your M, the M6TTL + SF20 will be easier to operate and give you more flexability. Not that it cannot be done on the classic, just easier with the TTL. With the TTL you can use any of the apertures on the lens without resetting the flash. On the M6 Classic, you have to set your lens' aperture to match the one you set on the flash or vice- versa, and I believe you are limited to 3 apertures to select from in auto. Exposure compensation is easier with TTL mode, but still doable in auto mode by adjusting the ISO setting on the flash.

IMO, there are the other bennefits of the TTL over the Classic to consider as well; shutter dial turns in the direction the metering arrows point, shutter dial is bigger and easier to adjust while looking through the camera, extra led on the meter.

However, many folks prefer the Classic because; the metering readout is simpler, the shutter dial is the same size and turns the same direction as the earlier M's, and the camera itself is 2mm shorter. (I know, it does not sound like much. But I have heard folks swear they can tell the difference, and don't like the way the TTL feels. Couldn't prove it by me, though.)

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), December 02, 2001.

Rick, the SF20 and M6 TTL are a terrific combo. Go for it, if you have the money to spend on new (or almost) equipment. Jack is right with the 3 f stop settings available in auto mode which, too, works just fine with the M6 classic (I own both types). Just a tiny bit of more thinking required - BTW the SF 20 interface succeeded in teaching me flash maths (even and espescially in manual mode) in a snap! While I understand the reluctance of seasoned M users - as the design of the M is most probably going to be kept the way of the TTL from now on, the TTL is a good starting point to get accustomed to present and future RF Leicas ... ;o) Enjoy.

-- Lutz Konermann (lutz@konermann.net), December 02, 2001.

I'm so happy to read precedent mails: with my M6 TTL, I bought immediately the SF20 which I enjoy with; difficult to miss a picture in TTL mode with it. An expensive excellent Leica gear. Alain

-- alain.besancon (alain.besancon@chu-dijon.fr), December 02, 2001.

I also have the SF20 flash. There are a few little things that I think Leica should do to improve it. Firstly, Leica should take advantage of the rangefinder and have some way of coupling the distance readings into the flash (non-TTL mode). I would also like some way of locking a flash setting. If the flash unit knows the distance from the subject "on the fly" then it would be a simple matter of taking a meter reading off the subject and translating the distance/reading information into a flash setting. This could be very helpful in flash candids if you have to re-compose. Presently, the center-weighted (wide spot) metering doesn't allow you to recompose the subject on TTL mode and on manual you always have to be wary of the flash output.

-- John Chan (ouroboros_2001@yahoo.com), December 02, 2001.

John:

FWIW, the TTL metering in the SF 20 flash reads OTF (off-the-film). As such it is an overall averaging meter, not a wide-spot off the curtain like the normal meter.

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), December 02, 2001.

How does the SF20 work on other cameras- you can use it in full manual mode? Auto (thrysistor) mode? My Hexar AF's flash is kaput. Would an SF20 work on it?

-- Tse-Sung (tsesung@yahoo.com), December 02, 2001.

Tse-Sung,auto-Thyristor mode with a choice of 3 apertures. Actually, you have unlimited apertures because you can adjust the ISO setting in 1/3 stops.

This is a better designed unit that it appears to be at first...

Rick, you can set the flash on one of 3 apertures on the M6 classic and it will meter using a sensor on the body of the flash. You set the ISO on the flash in 1/3 stop increments (e.g. 100, 160, 250 etc.)

So, in theory you can effectively set other apertures too, simply by suitably adjusting the ISO speed from the actual speed of the film. However, you will need to remember to reset the correct ISO after you are done to avoid mistakes later on!

Actually, the M6 classic is not a bad choice of body if you do many half-length or vertical portraits, because the SF20 it will trigger the flash at 1/125 second. As explained in Andrew Nemeth's page, for vertical portrait fill-flash, the M6 is more versatile for this reason even though the flash fills only the (top) half of the frame.

Check out

http://www.nemeng.com/leica/index.shtml

for details.

-- Mani Sitaraman (bindumani@pacific.net.sg), December 02, 2001.

The SF20 is an excellent flash unit for the M6 TTL. I've thinking of getting bulky flash for my M6 TTL back then, but with the good advised of the gentlemen and ladies in this forum made me think otherwise. Goodluck.

-- ed gaddi (edgaddi@msn.com), December 03, 2001.

Having started my Leica M life with a 'Classic' I now have a TTL with an SF20. It is a meaningful step forward - it really does make life a lot easier, and the extra 2mm is irrelevant. Go for it!

-- Paul Hart (paulhart@blueyonder.co.uk), December 04, 2001.

Rick:

I have used the SF20 with a M6 TTL for about 2 years now. It is very convenient to be able to use the flash in TTL mode at any aperture (and at 1/50 or lower). With the diffuser on, the flash creates a soft and even light at short distances. The TTL program provides very accurate flash exposures. Since the SF20 is small and light, I usually carry it in a shirt or jacket pocket. But it is a small unit, and appropriate for small rooms or short distances only. For serious(!) flash photography, I use a huge Metz 50MZ5.

-- Muhammad Chishty (applemac97@aol.com), December 05, 2001.