** The BEST source of EL CAP BETA and BIG WALL TIPS on the WHOLE DAMN WWW! **

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Well, at least that's what we're hoping it can become, cuz we've got a ways to go to compete with Tuan right here!

But we are off to a great start! And we can always use more help.

You can get the El Cap beta and trip reports here: EL CAPITAN ROUTES AND BETA

In this bit you'll find an overview of El Cap routes. Click on the "climbed by passthepitonspete" link at the bottom to read about my ascents of each.

If you have some good beta to share on a route you have climbed, please do! Especially if the route is not yet entered. We have room for everyone and absolutely every route on the planet! If you haven't been here to rockclimbing.com yet, you've simply got to check it out!

For the VERY best source of BIG WALL TIPS ever published on the www., you can ASK DR. PITON

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok aka "Dr. Piton" (peterzabrok@cogeco.ca), November 06, 2001


aren't you an isurance salesman from Ohio? I have never meet anyone who was in love with them self as much as you. I meet you in the park, and I and a few folks, thought you were a self righteous dickhead.

-- Tim aster (wanker@powdog.com), January 21, 2002.

Well, how about that?

A nameless, faceless and dickless DETRACTOR plus a Big Wall Theorist, all rolled into one!

See you at the base, cuz it sure won't be on the summit!

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha! [Diabolical Dr. Evil laughter]


Dr. Piton

P.S. I sell insurance in Ontario, eh?


P.P.S. Hmmmmm, how could an insurance salesman who solos big walls on his holidays make seventeen ascents of El Cap, by some of its hardest routes, if he didn't know the Better Way?

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok (peterzabrok@cogeco.cab), January 31, 2002.

Pete...you do sound a bit self rigtheous, and the style of most your ascents is a bit in question since your are the fucing CEO of the chongo nation. The seasons move faster than you climb, and who hasn't climbed some of the captains hardest???? Pipe down with your beta spray, you think your Chris Mac or something, at least he is humble and chill.


-- brent (pinscar@hotmail.com), February 02, 2002.

Pete, loose the ego. This is the year 2002 and 17 El Cap acents makes you a average climber. Ever climbed Half Dome(or any other wall in the valley), in Zion, Black Canyon .... ?? No, why not if your such a "bad ass".

-- Anon (!@#%#@sldfj.com), February 03, 2002.

Yeah, i gotta agree. Dr. piton is a chump. I live is Salt lake city, home to bad asses like Doug Heinrich,Tim Wagner, and many others past and present...the list goes on an on. and you know what? all those guy are mellow, and cool, and friendly. Any one that calls themselves "Dr. Piton", has an ego that needs padding. More like "Dr go slow as fuck, and beat my chest when i finally top out".maybe if you weren't such a self righteous fool, you could have saved your marriage. Actually, if I was her i would have bailed too. I meet you in the valley, and man, you were a tool. A portable shower? On el cap? and you claim to be hard? get real dude.....are you trying to make up for something, like maybe a shortness in the trousers?? I think you just like to hear the sound of air moving out of your mouth, cause you never seem to shut the hell up.

-- Sarah (ihatedrpiton@hesachump.com), February 06, 2002.


you are a proud sista. You slice like a ninja with your "I'd leave too" stuff. I'd like to meet YOU in the valley, whatta ya think?

-- Brent (pinscar@hotmail.com), February 10, 2002.

Sorry, I am happily married to a great guy. But thanks for teh compliment!

-- Sarah (srobinsonuy@urjh.com), February 19, 2002.

It is an endless source of amusement to me how detractors put words into my mouth, especially those who cannot spell!

Please show me where I ever claimed to be a "bad ass." Please tell me where I "claim to be hard". Quite the opposite - I take great delight in my cu shy ascents. How many people do you know who bring a solar-powered shower on the wall? Would someone who claims to be hard spend every morning drinking coffee? [Note: I have been known to climb some mornings, but this is rare...]

Of COURSE I haven't bothered climbing anything on Half Dome - the approach is too long! That's far too much work for me! I might actually have to work up a sweat. Sheesh.

Now, as for my citizenship in the Chongo Nation, I may occasionally be Acting East Side Water Commissioner, and I was certainly Chief Witness for the Defense at Chongo's trial, where the charges were thrown out, and I am indeed Editor of The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing, but I'm certainly not the CEO.

Indeed I am married no longer - thank frickin' goodness! I am immensely enjoying my Post-Divorce Renaissance.

It was, however, with great hilarity that I read of the style of my ascents and Chris Mac in the very same paragraph!

Perhaps you would be interested in knowing how Chris McNamara feels about the style of my ascents? I believe if you are going to obtain a reference, then you might as well go to the top. Makes sense, eh?

Accordingly, please click here to read Chris Mac's reference of Dr. Piton's style of ascent. I doubt the irony will escape you.

Perhaps next time, I will provide a higher reference - hmmm, I wonder who that might be? How about the World's Greatest Climber? He's one of Dr. Piton's wall patients. However that might be just a bit too much work for me to do.....sorry.

Chumpily yours,

The Very Average Dr. Piton

"Plain Vanilla I ain't

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok (peterzabrok@cogeco.ca), February 20, 2002.

"17 El Cap acents makes you a{n} average climber. Ever climbed Half Dome(or any other wall in the valley), in Zion, Black Canyon."

Just because the man doesn't want to have to SHERPA his loads to the other walls of the Valley (which all PALE in comparison to the BiG StOnE) doesn't mean he is an AVERAGE climber. Sure, maybe an average bad-ass bigwall climber, but average climber, NO. And if he can take 12 days to solo stuff and have fun doing it (and take more gear and water than you need), then more power to him. I know that it takes HUGE BOLLOCKS to counterweight that haul line. Even with a 2:1. Just be sure to thank him when you find the 3 water bottles he left at the summit when you haven't had any for 2 days.

TRADitionally yours,


-- Paul Addison (addiroids@hotmail.com), February 20, 2002.

Who gives a shit? All this penny-ass pissing match shit is TIRED! PLAYED! Go climbing. Every sport will have people you don't like, styles you can't appreciate, and attitudes that don't JIVE. THIS is the "Human Condition". Far as I can tell, when all you people start soloing the walls Dr. P has, then, you may spray, or make a web site with a million links, or whatever. Oh, wait a minute, you haven't? never plan too? Great...SHUT THE FUCK UP!!!!!! pete, nice site by the way, but bro, you do love to instigate a good fueding. Classic if you ask me. DR. P. succeeded in ruffling the feathers of you thin skinned, new gear having, latte Drinking, pata-guchie funding, name-brand buying, wall climbing cause it's "cool", check out my new subaru Outback, wheres the gri-gri, weiners. haha HE GOT YOU!!!! Go climb, who gives a shit what anyone else is doing.

-- Tea (gunslingerillustration@hotmail.com), February 20, 2002.

By definition anyone who climbs solo, let alone A4+, is not an average climber. You should go to rockclimbing.com and go to the aid forum and check out what Pete has written, with a grain of salt (he means well), then decide for yourself whether you want to read his stuff. Much like a big dog on a chain he's much better off if nobody f#!*s with him.

I, personaly, value his opinion on technical issues, without his sense of humor (or Humour if you like) clouding my mind. Grow up, if you are grown ups, that is.

If you don't like Pete or the aid forum check out the others your bound to find something you like.


-- Jeff Savoie (jeffsavoie@earthlink.net), February 21, 2002.

To all the Dr. Piton detractors...

A story that all should read, even if you are sitting at home behind the keyboard jealous of Pete because he has 17 accents of El Cap, most on A4+ routes and you are still trying get up the guts to climb the 60ft A3 at your local crag:

The OLD Bull and the YOUNG Bull (Playboy version)

The old bull and the young bull are standing atop a hill overlooking a field when the young bull says to the old bull, "lets run down to the bottom of this here hill and FUCK one of them cows!"

The old bull replies to the young bull, "Lets walk down to the bottom of this hill and FUCK them all."

-- Midwest Sport Climber (harleydavidson_usi@hotmail.com), April 08, 2002.

"Show me where I spew..."

Here--->PTPP takes a flogging by RC.com users"

-- The Fact Finder (peterzabroksEGO@cogeco.ca), July 13, 2002.

Woo-hoo! Another nameless, faceless and dickless detractor, and he linked my all time favourite post!

READ IT! It's hilarious!

-- 'Pass the Pitons' Pete Zabrok (peterzabrok@cogeco.ca), July 13, 2002.

slackline for big wall training!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 420 peace out KGB for life!!!!!

-- splat langsdale (splatslacklining360@yahoo.com), December 27, 2002.

Pete, the thread that "The Fact Finder" linked to contained this paragraph from you.

"25 posts. 25 posts of hatred directed at poor ol' Dr. Piton. Now while I admit I am purposely being provocative, rrradam's attacks against me are frivolous and without merit. My credentials, experience and competence as a big wall climber, big wall editor, big wall coach, and b----' bad-ass m*therf*cker have rarely been questioned."

As you can clearly see, not only do you call yourself a 'bad-ass m*therf*cker', you also refer to yourself as the letter 'b' followed by some hyphens. Therefore, the posts you tore up earlier were legit.

P.S. - Why was the word 'mother' censored?

-- Steve Andrew (acid_8000_1337@hotmail.com), December 16, 2003.

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