eos bodies

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I was trying to get the veiws of the readers of this w/page as to how they feel about the two cameras in the original question. I dont like the light loss of the RS, but would appreciate the veiws of others especially some one who owns an eos 1n-HS, I only use the camera for general photography, that is I do not specialise in any subject

-- steven Maskill (Steven.Maskill@excite.co.uk), October 01, 2001

Answers

For general photography, what's wrong with a plain 1N? Do you use the high-speed motordrive? What about a 1V? The RS is a very specialised camera, and I can't see why anyone would have bought it for "General Photography".

-- Isaac Sibson (isibson@hotmail.com), October 01, 2001.

Isaac's right. If you don't need the RS, it's a pain. But if you do need it, it's wonderfull. Why did you buy it?

-- Jim Strutz (j.strutz@gci.net), October 01, 2001.

Why carry the extra weight if you don't need it? Get a EOS 1n or EOS 3.

-- GOPETE (pphan01@hotmail.com), October 01, 2001.

What about a EOS A2 or even the Elan 7. I don't see why you need to fire 10fps for general photography.

-- Jake F. (noone@nowhere.net), October 01, 2001.

I wasn't sure your light loss concerns were for exposure or viewfinder, but the EOS 1N's viewfinder is about as dim as the EOS 1RS for what it's worth. Why? The EOS 1N uses an extra bright screen to counter the light loss whereas the EOS 1N has the standard screen. You may use the EOS 1RS screen in the 1N but you must apply exposure compensation for correct metering.

To activate the cross AF sensor in the EOS 1N you need a F2.8 or faster lens, otherwise it degrades to suckie horizontal line only sensitivity (& racks back and forth too much). This means consumer lenses, e.g., EF 28-135 3.5-5.6 IS USM, perform poorly with this camera. Other than the reflex mirror, a few milliseconds more shutter lag and a half stop more light transmission, the EOS 1N is the same camera as the EOS 1RS. If you like your camera you'll like the EOS1N. Personally, I'd get an EOS 3 as it has the same interface you're used to but boasts advanced technology and has a much brighter viewfinder.

Besides a brighter viewfinder, the EOS 3 has better AF (cross sensor works at F4 or faster glass), spot meter averaging and E-TTL flash system (I leave ECF off). The EOS 1V seems slightly less bright than the EOS 3. Surprisingly, the EOS 5/A2 has a brighter viewfinder than the EOS 1N and its cross AF sensor works with F5.6 or faster lenses!

I hope these observations help.

Aloha

-- Puppy Face (doggieface@aol.com), October 02, 2001.



Just a couple of points about focus sensors:

1. For a variable aperture zoom lens (eg 24-85 F3.5-4.5), the smaller value is used, ie the lens is treated as F4.5, and so you will not get cross-type focus with this lens on the EOS 3, even though for much of the range it is F4 or faster.

2. Yes, the EOS 5 has an F5.6 Cross-type sensor, but this is only a normal precision sensor. The EOS 3/1V/1N are High-precision when they turn to cross-type, making focus more accurate.

On metering and focus screens:

The EOS 1NRS uses the Ec-R focus screen, which, along with the Ec-N (standard EOS 3 screen) is very bright. More recent bodies have a custom function which corrects metering for use with the extra-bright screens. However, in common with the EOS 5, the very bright screens have very little focus "snap", which the darker screens do. However, in the EOS 1V and EOS 3, you can have a screen with the normal markings (partial metering circle and focus ellipse) in either normal (Ec-CIII) or bright (Ec-N) versions, so if you don't like one, you can have the other. EOS 1V comes as standard with Ec-CIII and EOS 3 as standard with Ec-N.

Try getting a plain EOS 1V or EOS 3 for general photography. If you absolutely must have higher speed, then you can add PB-E2....However, for general photography, I've never used the 3fps mode on my EOS 5, let alone the 5fps mode.

-- Isaac Sibson (isibson@hotmail.com), October 02, 2001.


Isaac, are you sure on this?

As I understand it with the EF 24-85mm at 24 mm the f/3.5 value is used thus allowing the center cross sensor to work. At 85mm it will be f/4.5 and the cross center needing f/4 or faster will not work.

-- Peter (peter.e@emaila.nu), October 08, 2001.


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