An approx. 1 sq.cm of vulcanite is missing on my M4. The former owner patched the missing part with some rather hard black wax, and it looks fine, but when I hold the camera for several minutes the spot becomes a litte soft, and although it does not become messy, I don't quite like the feeling.
I have read the suggestions about using Araldite, but I was wondering if it is adviseable to use 2 component epoxy resin for such a relatively large patch?
My previous experiences w. this material is; that when it sticks it becomes pretty much impossible to remove.
The rest of the vulcanite looks OK, especially after a treatment of sewingmachine oil. As I understand, vulcanite does become more and more fragile over time -and the day may come when I want it replaced with the current material. Therefore I am too happy adding epoxy if it can't be safely removed later.

Anyone w. experiences?

Suggestions for other solutions?
I may add that I have been experimenting w. different types of materials, without finding something good: Black hotglue (hardens too fast), other gluetypes tends to bubble up when they dry. The patch is not practically shaped for using the vinyl replacement material sold by eg. microtools.

-- Niels H. S. Nielsen (nhsn@ruc.dk), September 17, 2001

Answers

Correction:
Therefore I am not too happy adding epoxy if it can't be safely removed later.

-- Niels H. S. Nielsen (nhsn@ruc.dk), September 17, 2001.

I replaced a small piece of vulcanite on an old III with Evostik - no trouble since but it is not my main camera. Make certain both sides are dryish before pressing them together as it is an impact adhesive.

-- Tony Brookes (gdz00@lineone.net), September 17, 2001.

Niels, I'm not sure whether you are applying a patch or wanting to use some substance as a filler. It sounds like the latter. Anyhow, I have no experience with vulcanite but a fair bit with glues. Either way while the following may be informative get more expert advice than mine before putting your camera at risk. Contact adhesive is widely used for applying patches and various epoxies can be used to fill and glue.(make sure the surface is free of any wax or oil before using any glue) You can add black pigment to epoxy for colour. Commonly available epoxies eg Araldite (ie not high temp.) can be removed by using surprisingly little heat but you can hardly use a flame on your camera. You can use a hot wire or soldering iron. It's messy but effective.(Methylated spirits is an effective thinner/clean up for epoxy) I would suggest you do some experiments with epoxy on some similar metal surface first if you intent on doing the work yourself. Again I would err on the side of caution and wait for more expert advice when it comes to this specific application (ie. valuable Leica!)

-- Tim Gee (twg@optushome.com.au), September 17, 2001.

I would not be terribly worried about using epoxy to fill that area. If the rest of the vulcanite needed replacing, it would not be that big of an unertaking to remove the epoxy. Whatever of it couldn't be chipped off could be sanded down with a small arbor band on a Dreml tool. I have used both self-curing methacrylate resin and light- curing composite to do this type of repair, after treating the underlying metal with a special primer.

-- Jay (infinitydt@aol.com), September 17, 2001.

Have you looked into the cost of replacing the Vulcanite? I would rather replace the cover, even with an inexact replacement material, than permanently disfigure the body with epoxy. Even though the break is small, it isn't going to get any better over time and in the long run the cover will have to be replaced anyway; you certainly don't want to do something that will make that more difficult and costly.

rick :)=

rick_oleson.tripod.com

-- Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com), September 17, 2001.

This is a weird quick fix that worked for me and might work for you. I had a small break off of vulcanite on the back of my M-2 right by the film speed circle. I took some black roof patch (which is not tar but some sort of synthetic) and stuck it in the hole. This stuff does not dry quickly, so you can shape it, clean it off painted/chromed surfaces, or take it out if necessary. Once I got it where I liked it I let it sit overnight and then dabbed a drop of crazy glue over it to harden it. It's fine now.

An inch--? My fixit might work. Replacement--better.

-- Alex Shishin (shishin@pp.iij4u.or.jp), September 21, 2001.