SanFranChron

Doggie bags for an economy going to dogs

Sam McManis, Chronicle Staff Writer Saturday, August 25, 2001

You don't need to be Alan Greenspan to know that one of the nation's leading economic indicators -- doggie-bag requests at upscale restaurants -- suggests that we're headed for recessionary times.

At the Bay Area's white-tablecloth establishments, the doggie bag has become tres chic once more. Gourmets and just plain folk are asking waiters to wrap it -- and, yes, discreetly put that last slice of bread in, too. See, it actually is for (wink, wink) the dog.

A report released this month by the National Restaurant Association said 1 in 5 dinner customers now take home uneaten entrees. The Chicago trade group reported that 20 percent of restaurants surveyed say more diners are doing the doggie bags now than a year ago.

In fact, the Bay Area's own Greenspan -- that's Berkeley resident Judy Greenspan, who says she is a second cousin of the Federal Reserve chief -- is a leading proponent of the frugality of doggie bags. After cleaning her plate at lunch yesterday at Crepevine in Oakland's Rockridge district, Greenspan gave her assessment of doggie-bag economics.

"I never waste food, even when the economy's good," Greenspan said. "But, look around, people are asking for to-go boxes and this is primarily a salad place."

Greenspan has never met her famous relative, whom her father played stickball with as a child in New York City. Nevertheless, she said, "I can definitely tell you that Alan Greenspan would never ask for a doggie bag."

He may be in the minority. In this lean economy, those who have seen their dot-com fortunes shrink like a souffle aren't so haughty anymore when it comes to stretching the remains of their business lunch into a light dinner at home.

From high-tech hangout Left Bank in Menlo Park to "24" near Pacific Bell Park, from the Lark Creek Cafe in Walnut Creek to Rockridge's restaurant row, diners are flagging down wait staff to ask for more than just the check these days.

"It's no big thing and nobody's embarrassed," said Stephanie Marcus, manager of Il Fornaio in Palo Alto. "People who eat here have always asked for doggie bags."

Not so across the bay in Contra Costa County. At Lark Creek, a high-end Walnut Creek bistro, waiter Drake Atherton said doggie-bag requests have risen steadily as the economy has spiraled downward. He says he tries to avoid having customers feel awkward about asking for the bag by suggesting it himself in a jocular manner.

"It's not a faux pas anymore to take food home," he said. "My most well-off customers do it. It's amazing what they'll ask me to wrap. Even the smallest portions, a couple of noodles."

Greenspan and other patrons said they still give leftovers to the homeless, but some said they want it for themselves. At Lark Creek yesterday, Sheila Johnson, of Syracuse, N.Y., waited for her waitress to wrap two slices of gourmet pizza she couldn't finish.

"I'm not a big eater," she said, "so I'll finish it for dinner. It's got nothing to do with economics."

Down the street, Norman P., one of downtown Walnut Creek's few homeless men,

pushed his shopping cart past a Mexican restaurant and peered inside. Norman said the economy's downturn has meant fewer meals for him.

"I used to get people giving me their leftovers from the Walnut Creek Yacht Club and Jupiter, a nice chicken sandwich or something, but not so much anymore," Norman said. "Now, I'm lucky to get two hamburger patties from McDonald's in 36 hours. I will say that, last week, a lady gave me grilled salmon."

The homeless aren't the only ones missing out on diners' leftovers anymore. Canine companions seem to be stuck munching kibble instead of doggie-bag delights. But at least one lucky pooch, Chloe, a border collie, German shepherd mix belonging to a Lafayette resident named Janet still gets scraps.

"Always," Janet said. "Chloe's a meat lover. Eats better than I do."

-- Anonymous, August 25, 2001