I just did a test on my M6 and the rangefinder is 3cm out at about 1 metre (actual focus 3 cm behind rangefider split image) How do I adjust this.?

-- Tim (timphoto@ihug.com.au), July 27, 2001

Answers

This topic was discussed in great details before, search the archive

-- martin tai (martin.tai@capcanada.com), July 27, 2001.

The M category need to be subdivided into

M: rangefinder M: lenses M: shutter M: viewfinder M: body ......

-- martin tai (martin.tai@capcanada.com), July 27, 2001.

First you have find out if the problem is with the lens or camera. Test with another body and lens to isolate the problem.

Horizontal alignment can be adjusted at home but it is much easier to do with the correct jigs. You mention that your frame counter is off as well so I would recommend you send the camera out for a CLA. Vertical alignment (on a M4-2 and up camera) requires a special tool ($250US) or top plate removal so check carefully before proceeding.

First check out how the rangefinder is aligned at infinity. This is the basic adjustment and you always start and end with it. It is the most common one to be need doing. Point the camera, with its lens set to infinity ,at an object at least two miles (3.5 kilometeres) away. To adjust you turn the eccentric screw in the centre of the roller on the end of the rangefinder arm. Make sure you have a screwdriver that fits PERFECTLY and, most important, DO NOT APPLY ANY PRESSURE AGAINST THE ARM. You can damage the rangefinder pivot assembly. If this solves your problem, you can pat yourself on the back and say what a clever fellow you are. If not, then you have another adjustment to make.

To fine tune the accuracy of the M rangefinder, you adjust the length of the rangefinder arm. A longer arm gives less shaft rotaion than a shorter arm ( for a given lens cam movement). If your camera is fine at infinity but the lens is focused closer than indicated at closest focus, you need more rotation of the shaft than you are getting. You would shorten the arm slightly. ALWAYS START WITH THE INFINITY SETTING ADJUSTED FIRST.

If you look at the pivot point of the rangefinder arm, you will see the eccentric bushing, adjusting tabs and and lock screw. You must make this adjustment from underneath as THE RANGEFINDER MECHASNISM DOES NOT LIKE SIDE LOADS. This envolves removing the plate with the loading diagram on it, (be careful as there are important shims in there) and poping out the access plug. You can also bend a number of screw drivers with slightly different tip orientaions so that you do not need to access through the base.

Check your focus adjustment carefully at closest focus, 10 metres and infinity. How do you do this with out the special factory tools? Remove the flip up back, place a groundglass screen across the inner film rails and use a high powered loupe to check focus.

After adjusting the length of the arm you need to check and reset you infinty focus before you check the 10 metre and closest focus settings.

Personally, though I can do the adjustments, I prefer to let someone with the proper tools and jigs do the work. I use a 90/2AA wide open and close is not good enough.

If you have an earlier camera, vertical alignment is very easy. Remove the access plug above the lens mount and turn the now visible screw to adjust vertical alignment.

Cheers,

-- John Collier (jbcollier@powersurfr.com), July 27, 2001.

Wich lens are you using to do this test? There are some lenses that are prone to misadjust, like the 35/1.4 preasph, but very easy to set back.

-- r watson (al1231234@hotmail.com), July 27, 2001.