polaroid 55 p/ngreenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread
Because of the absence of ready-quickload b&w negative on the market I have intension to try Polaroid 55 p/n negative. But there is something that I don't understand: is it possible to expose Polaroid 55 p/n outdoor and develop them home later in the day? I don't think I would carry a bucket of sodium sulfite clearing bath with me outdoor. How does it work?
Any help and suggestions are very welcome. Thank you.
-- mario a. (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 05, 2001
No problem, directions are included with every Polaroid back. The other option is to carry a little waterproof baggie with a small amount of water in it, and put the negatives in there after development to keep them from drying out until you can get home and use the Sodium Sulfite bath.
-- Bill Mitchell (email@example.com), June 06, 2001.
You can develop the polaroids later. Do everything as you would do with the Polaroid; place the lever on "L", load, expose, and then reinsert the outer envelope. Now instead of pulling the lever down to the "P" position which will begin development, push in the film packet release button and withdrawal the packet.
To develop it later, place the packet back into the holder as if you were loading it initially. Then depress the lever to "P" and withdrawal.
-- (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 06, 2001.
Hi mario a
you should find a copy of Ansel Adams Polariod land Photography It has alot of info on 55p/n and formulars on hardening your negs after prossesing
-- Russell OMara (email@example.com), June 06, 2001.
Hi Mario, After removing the exposed film from the film holder, I usually place a piece of masking tape over the cap to keep the negative assembly inside the packet, as they can sometimes back out while carrying them.
-- Bill Jefferson (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 06, 2001.
Although not directly answering your question, it may be useful for you to know that the speed for the exposure of the negative differs from that of the positive. That is, a correctly exposed negative would be accompanied by a positive that is about one step over- exposed. I usually expose for the negative at 25-30 ASA, but the actual speed varies with every film package you buy. Since the film is so expensive, I do not test it anymore, but just use 30 ASA for all my exposures.
-- Emil Ems (email@example.com), June 06, 2001.
Hi to everyone,
I’m looking forward to experiment those “new” tools. Once again thank you for your kindness.
-- Mario A. (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 06, 2001.
I have had two polaroid backs and have had some problems from time to time getting the un-processed 55p/n packet out without exposing the bottom of the film (pulling the sleeve partway off). What I've found works, if you're having this problem, is to put the lever on "P" and begin to pull the sleeve out gently. Once the metal tab at the bottom is just out of the clip, move the lever to "L" and gently remove the rest of the packet. There is a little space to pull it before you break the chemical packet, but not a lot, so do this carefully.
Try it normally first, but if you're having the same problem I have, try that with a test packet to see if you're comfortable with it.
-- Andrew Cole (email@example.com), June 08, 2001.
Hi Russell to your comment on hardening, see Polaroids website look for tip sheet info on t-55 hardening, using Kodak fixer with hardener.
-- Bill Jefferson (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 30, 2001.