After much deliberation I have invested in a film scanner (the wife got the bathroom back !!) are there any of you out there that use the Minolta scan dual II for your B&W negs i would like to know the best method of obtaining good quality scans for a Website I am in the process of making.

I have scanned some negs. but they are far from satisfactory so some guidelines would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

-- paul (longrange@swipnet.se), May 27, 2001

Answers

OK, no answers so far. . . I don't have one, but what do you mean from "far from satisfactory"? Have you tried scanning them as color negs and converting in Photoshop? Some scanners don't work too well in B&W mode.

I don't know the Minolta interface, but at least you should be able to set black and white to black and white (endpoints, levels sliders, whatever) and that would be a start. There's probably a mid-range slider, to tune up the middle? That should give you something at least useable. And curves is a bonus, once you learn how to use it.

If you haven't done this kind of thing before, the learning curve can be pretty steep. What are you using for a photo editing program, after the scanning? Photoshop and Paintshop Pro (the cheaper alternative) are both good, but I don't like the usual "consumer" programs that cost $20-$60 or come free with stuff--they just don't have the tools to do the job if you care about what you're doing.

Maybe you should post something so we can see what kind of problems you're having.

-- Michael Darnton (mdarnton@hotmail.com), May 27, 2001.

If you haven't done this kind of thing before, the learning curve can be pretty steep.

Michael hit the nail on the head. Like everything else in photography, the operator is more important than the equipment. I'd recommend the combination of Photoshop for Dummies and Photoshop for Photographers (I don't mean to imply they are the same thing:_)) and a good understanding of how scanning works.

For starters, you need to understand your scanner interface and its controls. You probably want to scan in RGB and use channel mixer in monochrome to get to grayscale (this has to be followed by a grayscale conversion.) Use levels and/or curves. To do traditional darkroom work, it's important to learn how to do "selection" well with the Photoshop tools and then adjust with curves rather than with the dodge/burn tools. Sizing right is important too.

But it sounds like you need to start with the scanner interface.

-- Jeff Spirer (jeff@spirer.com), May 27, 2001.

I meant above that in order to do work "like traditional darkroom work".

-- Jeff Spirer (jeff@spirer.com), May 27, 2001.

Paul, I use the Minolta Dual Scan, the model before yours, and am quite happy with the B&W capabilities. I dumped the Minolta software the second day I had it and bought Vuescan. It is a well invested $40. Otherwise I can only reinforce what Jeff said. It is a long learning curve, and after 60 rolls scanned I am still on the steep part. These lower spec Minolta scanners are good value, but you trade the cheaper sticker price against hours adjusting things in photoshop.

Due to the limited contrast range of these scanners (yours should be better than mine), flat negs (and especially chromogenic films) scan well.

You would be best served posting site of your scans so we can critique them and give more specifc pointers.

-- Mark Wrathall (wrathall@aon.at), May 28, 2001.

Paul

Scanning for high quality black and white is difficult as eventually output to a printer is only 8 bit or 256 shades of gray - not much really compared to what a good silver print is capable of achieving, so you really need to scan in 16 bit mode (it is an option on the Minolta I think) and then fix curves and contrast before final scanning and reduction down to 8 bit in photoshop. You can also scan in color of course too, although there does seem to be some doubt as to whether this really helps as once again each channel is again only 8 bit. Certainly converting a color shot to black and white it is much better to scan in RGB, adjust curves and then convert to gray scale.

Having been reasonably happy with my black and white scanning I am having a rethink after realising this fact. However, I will persevere for some time because, of course, most prints in books have similar level of shades as 8 bit output. Better prints can be produced using the other (RGB) channels and the piezography process and multiple black and white inks, or going a duotone route, but I think this does basically suggest that at present it is very difficult to really get a digital print that is the equal of fine silver print. You need to ensure that the 8 bits encompasses the required contrast range of the print. I think that if you have a darkroom and intend to specialize in black and white you should keep it!

For color which uses three channels this is very much less of an issue, of course.

-- Robin Smith (smith_robin@hotmail.com), June 01, 2001.