Hi everyone. I've been shooting for some time now, and have wanted to explore some new ground. I shot a roll of Kodak IR and it came out wonderfully. However, the next three rolls I shot were all completely fog. What's he trick to this stuff? Where can I find some basic info on IR? Is there any other maker of this type of film (I'm partial to Ilford). Thanks

-- Nick Combs (nck01b@hotmail.com), May 08, 2001

Answers

Nick, are you loading/unloading the Kodak IR film in complete darkness? Also some plastic development tanks are thought not to be IR safe. However I've used Paterson plastic tanks for many years with IR film without fogging.

Ilford make an extended red/IR film called SFX200 but to obtain true IR effects you must use a true IR filter like Heliopan's 695, 780, 830 (Kodak Wratten equiv. of the 89B, 87, 87C). This film is available in 35mm and 120 format which I have used to good effect. It's easier to handle then the Kodak film (can be loaded in subdued light), and is sharper with finer grain. I hope this is of some help, regards,

-- Trevor Crone (trevor.crone@uk.dreamcast.com), May 08, 2001.

I would rather not use a 87c with the Ilford SFX 200, as the Ilford is only sensitive up to 740 nm. I tried the 87 with that film and had no image, as 50% transmission at 780 nm means about 1% or less at 740 nm and that already is on the edge of that film. But the 695 Heliopan should work fine.

Agfa APX 200S, which might be hard to get, is sensitive up to 770 nm, so using an F3 camera I used a 87 but required 5-7 stops filter factor(Gossen Variosix F). Regarding speed and grain I rate it far superior to the SFX 200. I use a 29 filter, TTL metering (F2AS/F3) and rate at 800, develop 10 mins in Tmax.

For indoor I use a nice Philips Infrared lamp, 150 Watt, did cost some 25 DEM. Combined with a 29 on the lens gives enough light for handheld portraits.

Kind regards,

Wolfram

-- Wolfram Kollig (kollig@ipfdd.de), May 09, 2001.

Get a copy of Lura White's book on IF Photography. I can't remember the exact title, but it is very good with lots of examples. Unless she has updated the book in the last few years, it does not cover the MACO films, but much of what applies to Konica 750 is similar for MACO 820.

Fogging of IR films is a nusance, but occurs rapidly with age and improper handling. With 35mm film, I've found that it is best to wind off the first 6 exposures before starting to shoot. And keep it frozen until about 2-3 hours before you are ready to load.

-- Gene Crumpler (nikonguy@att.net), May 09, 2001.

Mine fogged on me once after I loaded into the developing tank and let that sit around for a couple of days before processing it.

chris

-- Christian Harkness (chris.harkness@eudoramail.com), May 10, 2001.

Here's a website with much information on IR: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mainpage.htm

-- Jim Edmond (jhedmond@qwest.net), May 10, 2001.