FT1 Flash problems--Help!

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I just took two rolls of portraits of my employees. We are hiring a bunch of new people and I wish to post the photos of our people to help the new people in getting to know everyone.

I used an FT1 and my X-24 Flash. Not one picture taken with the flash from either roll of film turned out (30 pics) There was nothing on the negative. All were over exposed. I shot several pictures without flash outside and they turned out fine.

I had the X-24 set on the 5.6 stop and the flash worked with each exposure. I had the lens (135mm 3.5) set on AE. Shutter speed set at 60. Everything correct except NO pictures.

FYI, I previously had this camera setup with a Sunpak 444D flash on a stroboframe. I used the camera for some B&W shots with the Sunpak flash. Some of the B&W pic' were poorly exposed, some were O.K.

Did the Sunpak Flash damage my FT1. I have heard this may be a problem with earlier FT1's. Why would Sunpak produce a dedicated Konica Flash that ruin's cameras? It is an early FT1. The stamp on the sakura film decal inside the battery holder is stamped 3 C. Greg Weber says this means the camera was mfg'd in 1983 about june.

I purchased this camera from splitimage photo in NY. Then I took it to my local guy and he did a CLA and put in new foam. The camera used to work fine! Seems to work fine without the flash. I have another roll currently being processed without flash being used. We'll see.

Any ideas? I am most frustrated. David S Smith

-- Anonymous, May 04, 2001


FT1 Flash Problems

I would suggest that using your 135 portrait lens, and the x-24 flash may not be a compatible arrangement. Since the focal length of your lens is probably too long for the focused amount of light projected from your flash. My questions are as follows: 1. Why did you discontinue using the Sunpack dedicated flash? This flash would almost certainly elimanated the exposure problem, since most have a flash hood is adjustable for different focal lengths. 2. Have you tried a "standard lens" with setting the x24 flash, and what was the ASA setting of your film?(I have found that trying to go too far away on the higher f-stops degrades the flash timing/output.) 3. The best solution for portraits is to go with remote flashes, and extra lighting, backgrounds, etc. for a more controlled environment. 4. And the MOST important, ALWAYS try out new ideas, equipment, techniques, etc. BEFORE you do the shoot! That way, you can find errors before they start. Right now, a friend has gotten me to try some medium format, with a KIEV. These cameras are not known for thier reliabilitly, so I am testing the unit now, BEFORE I make ANY commitment, casual, or paid. I hope this helps. Jefferson Meyer

-- Anonymous, May 06, 2001

Sunpak flash...damage?

Well, whatever your problem is, I doubt very much that your Sunpak 444 flash would damage an FT-1. There were problems with older flashes (not older FT-1s)...thirty years older...that used the camera to switch the high voltage directly to the flash tube. But I've used several different Sunpaks with FT-1s for years with no problems.

As for your actual problem, if you were using a 135 at normal portrait distances an X-24 should give you "correct" exposures. Given the problem as you describe it, I think you do have a hardware malfunction somewhere. Hard to say where without borrowing some known good equipment and making some trial exposures.

Were you getting a correct indication in your viewfinder? The LED next to the f-stop you had the X-24 set to should light, f/5.6 I believe you said.

-- Anonymous, May 06, 2001

FT1/flash problems


Been at work and couldn't reply. I have gone over everything with the camera and flash and here's what I find.

First, two different rolls of film where no pictures. Print film with clear negs. No light hitting the film.

With the X-24 on the camera the LED reads the appropriate f5.6 or f11 as set by the flash. Flash also fires with each shot.

I've removed the film and fired the camera with the back open. The lens aperture would open and the shutter would open but initially, the camera would not change the aperture as set by the flash. After 50 or so firings the camera started getting the hang of things and working. I haven't tried it with film.

Also, occasionally the autoload feature does not work when closing the camera back. I have to fire the shutter to make the film advance to #1 position. This too is intermittant and after a bunch of firings started working more consistently.

I purchased this camer from Split Image Photo in NY less than 90 days ago. After receiving it I had new foam and a CLA performed. (The camera looked like a keeper and worth the extra work--hadn't tried the flash)

I spoke with Greg Weber. He thinks there is likely some electric contacts failing and soon the camera will come crashing down. I'm sending the camera back to Split Image and we'll see how they handle things.

Very frustrating since I can't reliably prove it doesn't work except by attempting to take more pictures. I can't abide by unreliable camera stuff.

David S Smith

-- Anonymous, May 06, 2001

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