I'm interested to know how people handle metering when using the Noctilux, particularly when shooting in the famous available darkness. Assuming the M6 meter even gives a reading, what kind of compensation does one typically make so as not to get a Zone 5 image when you want the darkness of the scene to be evident? And when the meter gives no reading? I suppose one just has a lot of fun just guessing and shooting a lot of film?

-- Jim Shields (jim.shields@tasis.ch), April 26, 2001

Answers

I use a hand held light meter in ambient mode. Also for available light you might just want to use exposure tables. For instance, more often than not, indoors tungsten lighting is f2 1/60th. If I have to shoot quickly I just use the table.

-- Russell Brooks (russell@ebrooks.org), April 26, 2001.

1. For me, tables usually work quite well, better than metering. 2. Sometimes, I meter the dimmest part of the scene where I want any detail, and stop down 2, as a fall back. This usually gives a dark look overall, with the highlit area (similar to spotlighting in theatre photography) coming out OK. Using this method in negatives seems to yield printable negatives, but I'm mostly a slide shooter, where it works fine.

-- Mani Sitaraman (bindumani@pacific.net.sg), April 26, 2001.

Far be it from me to admit to ignorance about anything, but where can I get these tables? That tungsten tip is pretty useful. Maybe someone would like to post a set of typical exposures (beyond the sunny 16 rule)?

Thanks,

-- rob appleby (rob@robertappleby.com), April 26, 2001.

The Kodak website has many exposure guides. Here is one:

http://www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/consumer/products/techI nfo/ac61/index.shtml#50714

Cheers,

-- John Collier (jbcollier@home.com), April 26, 2001.

Jim:

In available darkness when shooting with the Noctilux, I have generally relied on the meter in my M6TTL with good results, unless experience dictates an alternative exposure. To meter, I move the camera around and pick what I feel is kind of a weighted-average exposure setting for the scene. Of course the best method is a hand- held spot meter, metering the part of the scene you want squarely in zone V -- but this process seems a bit non-complimentary with the M style of shooting to me.

Also, you might want to check out the "Black Cat Exposure Guide". It is a very useful little tool that works very well, and lists basic exposures for just about everything you can imagine. It is a laminated, tri-fold exposure wheel type of thing, takes up no room in your bag, has a gray card on it, and only costs about $15! I think Calumet sells them.

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), April 26, 2001.

Black Cat follow up:

I could not find the guide on Calumet's website, but here is the url for Black Cat: http://www.teleport.com/~bcat/

Cheers,

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), April 26, 2001.

Thanks, John - as usual you come up with the goods.

Rob.

-- rob appleby (rob@robertappleby.com), April 26, 2001.