Two questions: 1) What cord can be used for off-camera flash with M6? And 2) There are 2 pins (one fixed the other spring-tensioned retractable) connecting the hinged back to the body on the M6. The fixed one broke flush with the body and can not be removed. Advice, please. I was told between $300-$400 because the whole hinged back must be replaced. Come on, guys. All I need is pin. Thank you for your time!

-- Mike Maksimuk (mikemak@gol.com), April 24, 2001

Answers

1) Cord: PC to PC (male to male), if your flash has the standard female PC socket on it. (The socket on the back of your M6 is a standard female PC socket.) You can also get locking ones, that screw in. On the PC to PC, be careful, as there is also a PC extension cable, which has one male end and one female end, so you still need a PC to PC to make it work. Alternatively, you could use a PC to hot- shoe cord, assuming your flash has a hot-shoe.

2) Pin: Unless the one stuck in the body can be removed, you're hosed :( You might try taking it to a machine shop that has EDM (Electro-Discharge Machining) capabilities, but unless you catch them during a slow period, you'll likely pay dearly for an EDM job -- They could also have the pin in stock, as it is probably a standard size.

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), April 24, 2001.

It is not clear from your message but I assume that the pin is not stuck in the body but that you cannot remove it from the back. Take the back to a good machine shop, have them mask it properly (so no shavings get into the ISO selection dial) and have them drill out the old pin. There should be no problem locating plated pin stock of a similar diameter or having one made up. If the pin is hardened it then becomes more difficult and more expensive. There MAY be free space to tap the broken pin in further and then insert a replacement pin. What ever you do, do it slowly and carefully. Leica only supplies complete backs which are rather expensive what with the ISO dial and all.

Cheers,

-- John Collier (jbcollier@home.com), April 24, 2001.

Also try removing the sliding pin and see if you can drive the broken pin out out from behind.

Cheers,

-- John Collier (jbcollier@home.com), April 24, 2001.

Mike:

It's a long shot, but here is another idea on broken pin removal... Soft metal tends to have a higher coefficient of expansion than hardened metal; brass and aluminum more than steel. Meaning when heated, softer metal expands faster and more than hard metal. You could try heating the door around the pin a bit -- just about to the point where you cannot touch it with your hand -- and if you're very lucky, the pin may fall out. Also, you want to try and heat the door faster than the pin, so this is best done over the burner, rather than in the oven. Be careful not to scorch anything!

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), April 24, 2001.

Re: off camera flash cord, if you want to retain TTL capability with SF20 flash, you can use a Nikon SC-17 cord [thick and expensive], or a Contax #100 cord [very reasonable - see CameraWorld].

-- Alec (alecj@bellsouth.net), April 24, 2001.