I'd like to know the best way to pass the knot on a two rope rappel. Also how do you rig a butt bag at a bolted belay anchor, and a gear belay? Thanks, Pat

-- Patrick Neal (treetopzx2@yahoo.com), March 18, 2001

Answers

Patrick, I don't "get it". Why would you ever have to pass a knot on a two-rope rappel? Are you not rappelling equally on two equal-lengthed ropes which are joined by a knot? Is the knot not right next to the anchor so that the ropes are the same length? You should never have to pass a knot on a double rope rappel! As for rigging a butt bag, remember that it's just holding you in place - you have to stay tied into the end of your rope at all times. Therefore I would adjust the length of your tie-in rope(s) using a clove hitch to the "power point" of your anchors so that you're "safe". You can then hang the butt bag off of any single anchor point so that you are hanging comfortably. Since everything is joined together through you and your anchors, it doesn't matter what you hang the bag on. If that piece fails, you swing a bit, but you're still into everything else. If you're on a wall, you should make a bench, which is MUCH more comfortable than a butt bag. But for the ultimate in comfort, I lie in my portaledge on every single belay. I haul the ledge fully assembled by "flagging" it ABOVE the haul load. It flies like a flag remaining virtually unaffected by even the strongest winds. I set the thing up once on the ground, then disassemble it once I reach the summit slabs. Cheers, Pete

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete (peterzabrok@home.com), March 28, 2001.