I'm looking for advice on solo mountaineering and the best techniques for saftey on glaciers. In spite of all the criticism of solo mountaineering, it is the way I most enjoy being in the mountains. I have no macho goals or anything to prove I just want to climb alone. How do I do that on glaciers? Can one use a solo running belay and basically climb the mountain twice by setting an anchor moving forward and setting another one then return to remove the first one and move on setting anchors as you go? Is this too unrealistic? Has anyone done this who can offer advice?

-- brent mcclun (brent@mosquitonet.com), February 23, 2001

Answers

I've heard of folks using a ladder as a crevass catcher... but that doesn't sound too fun to me. If you don't know how to safely cross a glacier solo, I'd consider not doing it. The need for a partner is paramount... even the best die with a partner to help them out of bad situations.

good luck, jason

-- jason (jliebgott@hotmail.com), February 23, 2001.

Hi Brent, Solo climbing/mountaineering can be a highly rewarding and unique experience or a tragedy waiting to happen. Your experience will depend upon your willingness to be prepared for any situation. This means having the knowledge required for self rescue as well as first aid for yourself and others. Even though you will travel alone it does not mean that won't be thrown into a situation where others may depend on your experience to save lives including your own. The best way to acompolish this is your personal education. There are many schools/classes offered through the internet that can provide you with a lot of this knowledge but your real education will be through your own experience outdoors. Want to learn glacier travel? Take a class for cravass rescue/protection. Go to a small glacier and travel it with an experienced friend or guide. Then do it solo. Same with rock climbing. Start small, work your way up. The only rule is to stay alive and the chances of that happening are much greater if you stay within your abilities.

-- Wayne (climbharder@hotmail.com), March 05, 2001.

brent, That's possible to go on a glacier alone but, the better is to be with a partner on the glacier and when you arrived on the rimaye the partner leave you and go back on the valley with your foot traces. you can then climbing your solo route. sorry for my english HANS LOCHMATTER,CHamonix

-- hans (lochmatter@mdlmontagne.com), April 22, 2001.