Best way to seal galvanized stock tank leaks?greenspun.com : LUSENET : Countryside : One Thread
At auction last year, we bought a large oval tank, but it has some small pin hole leaks and LOTS of rust inside. Otherwise, it's in great shape. Currently we are just using it to catch runoff from the barn roof, then using that to water trees. However, I would like to be able to eliminate the rust and coat the inside with something SAFE that would enable us to use the tank to water the horses if we needed it. Got to thinking about the post about using automobile undercoating spray, and wondered if it would work? I realize we would have to use a wire brush or something to remove as much rust as possible first, but anyone have any experience with these? Thanks, Jan
-- Jan in CO (Janice12@aol.com), February 21, 2001
I have no experience with patching a water tank. I have, however, patched a bathtub with automotive fiberglass filler. Sanded it down to remove the rough surface and it worked. Might be an inexpensive option.
-- Terri Perry (email@example.com), February 21, 2001.
JB Weld adhesive/sealer will work nicely. I have used it on everything from water buckets to engine blocks. The pack said some guy in Iowa developed it. Works wonders. You can buy it at Wal Mart.
-- Jay Blair in N. AL (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 21, 2001.
If the tank won't need to be moved it can easily be sealed with some concrete. Bentonite clay, which comes in bags, can also be used for sealing.
-- Notforprint (Not@thekeyboard.com), February 21, 2001.
I agree with with NotForPrint. Assuming you're not going to move the thing again, steel brush all the rust away, seal it, then either just use cement on the leaks; or better still use the tank as a form and cement-render the entire inside. If you're only patching the leaks (less satisfactory) then also treat the outside of them.
-- Don Armstrong (email@example.com), February 21, 2001.
A good emergency fix for something like this is to use a galvanized bolt, nut and large fender washers over rubber washers on both sides. Drill a clean hole where the leak is, place a fender washer and then a rubber washer over the bolt, insert in hole, and place other rubber washer, fender washer and nut on bolt and tighten down. You can usually find various rubber and plastic washers at your local true value or ace hardware store.
-- Skip Walton (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 21, 2001.
== JB Weld adhesive/sealer will work nicely. ==
Don't know why I read this thread, but I'm glad I did! My pet hog's swimming (lounging?) pool is an 8 foot round, one foot high galvanized tank. I keep hoping it never leaks, but I know the day will come along. Thanks for the tip, Jay.
-- ~Rogo (email@example.com), February 21, 2001.
JB Weld or just about any two part epoxy will work fine on the pinholes. If you use the undercoating just wire brush it real good and maybe get some of the rust inhibiter stuff and apply it to the rust before the undercoating. I also think it'd be a good idea to bite the bullet and get 3M undercoating. Its a little more expensive but it seems to last alot longer.
-- john leake (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 22, 2001.
Thanks for all the possible solutions! Unfortunately, cementing the tank isn't an option, in case we re-configure the corrals or decide to move and want to take the tanks with us. I'll contact the manufacturer of the undercoating and see if they will tell me anything as far as it leaching out toxins that might harm the livestock. Probably not, after it is cured, but want to be safe. Thanks again, everyone! Jan
-- Jan in CO (Janice12@aol.com), February 22, 2001.
Just saw the thread. We've fixed ours with silicon caulking sealer or metal roof cement.
-- Stacia in OK (email@example.com), February 23, 2001.
The JB Weld is a great idea. A fiberglass kit for $11.00 will do the whole bottom of the tank I'd imagine. There is also a food safe paint for galvanized tanks, pails etc. I've seen it advertised in maple syup equipment catalogs. If your concerned about some type of leaching you could use this over your patching material.
-- Peter (in NY) (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 25, 2001.