Clayton Rapid Fix for Paper?greenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread
I'd like to try Clayton odorless rapid fix with film. This is ammonium thiosulfate based. The bottle gives dilutions for film and paper (similar to Kodak rapid-fix) but no fixing times. I called Clayton and nobody at the factory number knew, they gave me a sales rep. I called him and he was vague and a little flippant about it, telling me that it would clear film "in seconds." (Not what I wanted to know.) He suggested 25 to 35 seconds total fix for paper ("If it makes you feel better.") I've read that you should never go over 2 minutes for ammonium thiosulfate fixer. I had sort of decided on 1 minute of fixing with constant agitation, but was wondering if anyone out there knew a better number. Also, the hazard warning with skin irritation is a bit more dramatic on this product. Anyone had trouble sticking your fingers in it? Thanks for your help.
-- Kevin Crisp (KRCrisp@aol.com), February 05, 2001
Amendment! I want to use it with paper, despite what I wrote in the first sentence of the question. Sorry!
-- Kevin Crisp (KRCrisp@aol.com), February 05, 2001.
A 60 second fix in rapid fixer is the usual recommendation. Ilford is quite explicit about this. I read the technical papers by Ilford chemists (I'm ChE) and have now been processing this way for about 2 years.
I'm suprised that Clayton wasn't more specific.
-- gene crumpler (email@example.com), February 05, 2001.
This is most likely just a generic rapid fixer. Mix it at _film strength_ (usually 1:3) and give a one-minute fix. Don't use the same solution for both film and paper.
Capacity is rather limited; you really should use the two-bath method giving 30 seconds in each bath.
-- John Hicks (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 05, 2001.
Basically, you can only underfix, you can't overfix. Anything over 1 minute should be fine. Two minutes, five minutes, even ten won't harm your prints.
A few hours in the fix might cause some density loss in the print, but you'd probably have to use a reflection densitometer to see it, and you might have to extend the final wash a little longer.
Fixing time isn't worth getting anal over.
-- Pete Andrews (email@example.com), February 06, 2001.
I had the same question and also called the factory. They were very nice and suggested, as others here have posted, 3-5 minutes for film and one minute with paper when mixed to the film strength. Just though it might give you some comfort to know the factory suggestions. Amazing that they don't put this on the label. FYI, Sprint also makes an odorless fix and I think they put all the information on the label though I don't have a bottle around to check.
-- Brian Ellis (firstname.lastname@example.org), February 07, 2001.
Well, I assume that you're talking about fiber base paper, but maybe the sales rep. thought you were using RC. 30 sec. is about right for film strength rapid fix (no hardener). Most tabletop processors, even though they're running at a higher temp., use essentially the same thing, and the prints run through the fix in like 20 sec. or so. Even the good old Kodak Royalprint processor (yech) did this. I once asked an Ilford technician about the short fixing time on our 2150 processor, and he said it was "good enough". I don't think an extended time in a quick fix is good for fiber paper, if anything it kind of negates the desire to cut back on your wet time, and you may bleach your image out slightly. As far as the safety stuff goes, just call Clayton and request an MSDS sheet if you're really interested. The Kodak Rapid fix MSDS has some warnings about skin contact as well. I don't want to sound like an alarmist, and I don't think it's the same worry as a tray of selenium, but it never hurts to keep your hands out of the stuff. Besides you never know.
-- D. K. Thompson (email@example.com), February 07, 2001.