W.F. 10" Ektar & developing 8x10

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After reading all the answer to my "My first 8x10 lens" question I decided that I would try to find a W.F. 10" Ektar. BTW, than you all for the responses. This lens however seems difficult to find so If anybody knows somebody who has it for sale, please let me know.

Today's questions is about developing 8x10 sheet film. I own a Jobo CPE + lift with a 1520 + 1530 drum. I'm using it to develop 35mm and 120 film. I just tried and a 8x10 sheet fits exactly in the drum I was wondering if anybody seea a problem developing a sheet of film loaded into this drum (emulsion side to the center of the cilinder of course). I've been reading the recent post about this and I'm still not sure why this would not work. Isn't how the BTZS tubes are working? What am I missing?

-- Sorin Varzaru (svarzaru@bigfoot.com), January 14, 2001


Here's some of what Jobo has to say:




You might contact them:

Equipment or Processing Questions: Phone: Customer Service Department (734) 205-9421 e-mail: tech@jobo-usa.com

-- Sean yates (yatescats@yahoo.com), January 14, 2001.

Thank you Sean. I didn't know there is emulsion on both sides of the film. Is this true for both negative and reversal film?

-- Sorin Varzaru (svarzaru@bigfoot.com), January 14, 2001.


There is one on the dreaded ebay right now. Another option is to go to Google and type in 10" W.F. Ektar. I came across a couple examples this way.

Good Shopping

-- Kevn Kemner (kkemner@tateandsnyder.com), January 15, 2001.

If you get the lens from eBay (and possibly if you get it from any source), you might want to figure in about $80 for a general CLA on the shutter. If it doesn't need it, consider that you have $80 in found money and spend it on film. Also try www.mpex.com, www.lensandrepro.com, www.thefstop.com, and www.stephenshuart.com--all reliable and respected dealers of used lenses on the net.

-- David Goldfarb (dgoldfarb@barnard.edu), January 15, 2001.


I can see two problems with developing an 8x10 sheet in a JOBO 1520/30 drum. First if the sheet begins to free float and not turn with the drum, uneven development will occur. Secondly, the antihalation coating on the back of the film won't be fully removed, but that can be corrected.

As long as the sheet turns with the drum you will get proper development. You can then use plain water, or stop bath to halt development. After that, remove the sheet in total darkness and put it in a tray of fixer; after two or three minutes, it should be OK to turn on a dim light. Complete the fixing in the tray. This will remove the antihalation coating completely and you should end up with good negatives. I say should, because I have never tried it, but I have used BTZS tubes and the concept is identical. Good luck!


-- Pete Caluori (pcaluori@hotmail.com), January 15, 2001.

Pete, is this for slide or print film?

-- Sorin Varzaru (svarzaru@bigfoot.com), January 15, 2001.

If you're looking for a Kodak lens, you can use the following to determine the year of manufacture of the lens. Each of the letters in CAMEROSITY correspond respectively to the digits 1234567890. So, and "RS" in the serial number was made in '57. This is about the latest year that I have found these lenses to be made.

-- neil poulsen (neil.fg@att.net), January 16, 2001.

Re. my previous post, I was referring strictly to B&W print film. I would not consider processing color (E-6 or C-41) in that manner. All processing variables must be adhered to more tightly when dealing with color materials or color shifts will occur.

Color neg film also has an antihalation coating on the back side, though I'm not sure at which step in the C-41 process this is removed. Processing 8x10 film in the JOBO drums you mentioned, will not allow chemistry to flow effeciently over the back side of the film.


-- Pete Caluori (pcaluori@hotmail.com), January 16, 2001.

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