Mixed

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Has anyone climbed in Scotland before? If so do you know what I mean when I say mixed? Are there any good mixed climbing venues in Canada/N.America that are worth visiting. Preferably M3-6 long routes Not bolted 10m M8's. What time would be best to go? Cheers I would appreciate any answers.

-- Ben Will Wilks (climbnowworklater@hotmail.com), October 04, 2000

Answers

There are tonnes of good quality mixed routes. I will start off with the fall alpine routes. On mount Andromeda there is: Shooting gallery 5.9 mixed, Asteroid alley 5.9 mixed, Andromeda strain 5.9 A2 mixed, and the "practice gulliues. These routes are in good conditions in the fall. Mount Kitchner has 2 mixed routes. The Grande Cental Coulior 5.9 A2 mixed and the Ramp ROute. 5.8 mixed. These routes are on big mountains with all the associated alpine hazards. There is Humble Horse on Diamdem. 5.7 WI4. A classic route. On Mount Cromwell there are 2 mixed routes. Again these routes are alpine mixed routes. In the winter there are waterfall mixed routes Red man soars 5.10 mixed, A route called Mixed masters which is absolutely amazing 5.8 WI 5. And a hoard of routes on the Stanley Head Wall. There are actually so many of these kind of routes that I could write a couple of pages of info. If you would like wo email me back with more info I would be happy to answer any questions. One food for thought is that old style routes, ie not sport bolted mixed climbing, was done in the rockies for the last 50 years and maybe even before that. But from my experience these alpine mixed routes that maybe be called m4's or m5's are considerably harder than any m8 bolted route I have been on. The mixed climbs for instance on the stanley head wall are very cerebral to say the least. Really research the info and conditions on these climbs. Ive heard many a nightmare stories about these routes. Last year I was on shooting gallery, 5.9 mixed. There was very little pro and very steep non protective so called 5.9 climbing. I took some air time where as ive heard that this section can be easy grade 4 ice. Condition dependant. The routes form very very regularly and you will never ever be left with nothing to do. Have fun!!!!

-- Greg Dickie (gregkelliedickie@hotmail.com), October 05, 2000.

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