I am concidering a harder wall in the valley (A2+). The South Face looks unpopular and remote. I have several walls under my belt and am experienced in soloing walls. Any beta on the condition of this route and gear recomendations?

-- David Brendgard (davidb@empnet.com), October 02, 2000

Answers

I dont know anyone who had recently done this route. But, talking to one of the first ascentionists i have some general beta that might be helpful.

The south face is very unpopular because of its long approach. Its one thing to approach a route route like snake dike with a small free rack. its another thing to shuttle a full aid rack and bivy gear to the base of the south face.

that said, south face will be a guaranteed adventure. I would count on shaky belay bolts (bring a drill kit to replace NOT ADD bolts), lots of bat hooking and the occasional runout 5.7 face section.

Although the wall is given a moderate rating, i would bet that because of the few ascents and sparce beta this route would be feel as hard as a route like the shield or mescalito. I am sure that a high trafficed route like zodiac is much easier.

if you do this route please let us know what it is like!

-- Chris McNamara (chris@supertopo.com), November 13, 2000.