Prodical Son Question : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

Hi All, I desperately need beta on the Prodical Son route in Zions. Some friends and I are planning a trip there in October to do this route. What rack is needed? How crowded can I expect it to be? Is this a good first big route considering we are very new (learning now) to aid climbing? Any info will be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in Advance, Jeff Burghardt (

-- jeff burghardt (, September 26, 2000



Prodigal Son is a great first wall route (my first). When we did it we only saw one other party (but that was in August). I think for your rack youre going to want to bring double set of cams w/ tripples in alien/tcu size, lots of aluminum offsets were nice but reg. nuts work fine. Throw in a hook for the first move on the 4th pitch. The 2nd and 3rd link. The belay from the top of pitch 4 is really incredible. We bivied on top of pitch 6 and were happy w/ this spot. Pitch 7 is probably the crux (the 2 harder moves could be avoided w/ a clipstick). On pitch 8 there is one blown out scar that is hard to place gear in so you might want a clipstick for that. Then on the last pitch jug w/ the haul bag (pitch ends at the pine tree by the trail). And finally to complete the climb of Angles Landing in true fashion fallow the trail all the way to the top then run back down before any tourists make off w/ your gear.

The decent is mellow and paved most of the way.

Hope this helps. Good luck on an enjoyable climb.

-- Brian (, September 28, 2000.

First off, the park is called ZION. Notice there is no "s" on that title. Don't say ZIONS or people will really bust your balls(Like I am, but this is better than in the park!!). Anyway, the route is pretty straight forward. Don't worry about the stick clip, the route is way easy without it, so why cheat yourself out of the 50 feet total that is actually challenging?. Double set up to a 3.5 is cool, offset brass and DMM peanuts will save you tons of grief,as will offest aliens! as placements change with every ascent (DEFINATELY). Pretty much any pitch will acomodate a hanging bivie, but the route can be done in a day. Many pitches can be run together with a 60m cord. 1&2, 4$5, 5&6, 6&7. If you bivie try to bivie at the base of the arch crack. Great exposure here. The exit, well it blows, but like Bri said, definately do anything to not hual it. Like climb it in a day with a backpack, or something. If you hual, especially with someone below you, you could ruin someones day (life) as it is WAY loose. Anyway, great route! Have fun. E-mail if you need a topo!


-- feelio (, October 06, 2000.

i am one of the six i believe i'm the prodical son for i have seen my self die in many different life's and i need your help to help me understand this why i've been seeing these things and where i have to go thank you .Will lucas

-- wilberto lucas 3rd. (, June 26, 2003.

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