Gape Worms

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I need information on how to eradicate Gape worms from the soil in the pens where I raise Bobwhite Quail and Ringneck Phesants. I am willing to use any chemicals which will not harm the birds. I have been trying the suggestion in issue 84-2 page 72 to get rid of the worms after the birds are already infected. However if I can cleanse the soil this would not be needed. Thank You in advance for any help you can give me.

-- Terry Parsons (terryaparsons@netscape.net), June 05, 2000

Answers

Terry, depends somewhat on exactly what kind of worms you have. Gape worms are most likely Syngamus trachea. There are a few other worms also refered to as gape worms, and gape worms possibly can be called gizzard worms. Bad news is that I know of no way to get rid of them. I can't find anything that gives a life-span for the worms at any stage of their life. A vet would have better information than I do.

The gape worm spreads as the infected bird coughs up the eggs which it then swallows. The eggs leave the bird in its manure. Another bird may then pick the eggs up, or the eggs may hatch then be eaten, or the eggs or worms can be swallowed by earthworms and some other creatures. I did find a remark that they can live for a long time in the earthworm, but not how long. Earthworms aren't hosts, just carriers. But still tasty to your birds. You can poison the earthworms out, nasty stuff though. You'd basically end up sterilizing the ground. If you're going to do that, you'd be better off raising your birds up on wire. Plus the birds will still be getting parasitized from each other and wild birds. Raising your birds up will help reduce those points of re-infection, also.

Basic husbandry-cleanliness, keeping young and old birds apart, treating infected birds, feeding them off the ground, rotating pens-are probably your best bet for beating these things. Talk with your vet. There may be something available for ground treatment. I'd be somewhat surprised if there was, however, this is the sort of problem that was solved by confinement houses.

One option that was used in the "good old days" was to use 2 runs per shelter house. One year the birds were put out in the east runs, the next year they were put out in the west runs. I've also seen where the use of two seperate houses was recommended. So the first year you'd use run 1 of house A, second year run 1 of house B, third year run 2 of house A, and fourth year run 2 of house B. Then you'd start over. Not the cheapest or easiest solution, but it does make a lot of sense. Gerbil

-- Gerbil (ima_gerbil@hotmail.com), June 05, 2000.


I wonder If soil steralation would work [clear plastic mulch laid over damp soil for a couple weeks]area has to get sun though.

-- kathy h (saddlebronc@msn.com), June 06, 2000.

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