I'd like to play aound with some paper negatives in my 4x5 using Ilford Multigrade IV RC Deluxe (pearl) paper.

Anyone do this before and have some idea of an approximate speed to set on my meter?

Also, would there be a significant difference in making the negative using the pearl finish or the glossy finish (texture variations) when a contact print is made from the paper negative?

-- Todd Frederick (fredrick@hotcity.com), April 23, 2000

Answers

Hi Todd,

I did some tests with a pinhole camera along these lines but due to my pinhole camera having a light leak the results weren't convincing. Although the leak was distinct in that you could see excatly where it was coming in, I don't know the overall fog effect it had on the rest of the 'neg' And, now I can't find my notes either!

However, here's what I did...

I metered the scene with my camera, measured my pinhole (roughly) and calculated what I thought the exposure which I think was something like 7secs, then I made several exposures (about 10) based on that, doubling the time each time, figuring that the paper was going to be slower than I anticipated. I have found the negs, but I'm convinced the fog effect was too much to draw any conclusions as the 7sec, 14sec and 30sec ones all look pretty much the same.

Since you're contemplating doing this with a lens of known f-stop, you could do this easily and accurately. Another option is to check on Ilfords website to see if the quote an ASA rating.

I'd be interested in seeing the results.

Cheers, Nige

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@eisa.net.au), April 23, 2000.

back again...

Just checked a website i had bookmarked and it says

"Scene to photograph is under sunny conditions, material used as negative is B&W multigrade paper. Approximate ISO speed for it is ISO6. Therefore, using Sunny16 we should expose for 1/6 secs and f/16. "

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@eisa.net.au), April 23, 2000.

In a test I ran today I found that with my equipment and developer an ISO of 2 seems to work best with Ilford Multigrade IV RC pearl. Attached is a sample of a patient subject that didn't move too much in the wind. I'll try more interesting subjects tomorrow. The resolution was quite good for a paper negative.

-- Todd Frederick (fredrick@hotcity.com), April 24, 2000.

pretty good Todd, cattus is good for something... how'd you make the print, scan the neg and invert or contact print it?

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@eisa.net.au), April 24, 2000.

Nigle,

Hopefully I can get out today to find some interesting subjects to play with. I did this all very quickly, and processed the paper negative, dried it with a hair drier, and then placed it face to face with another sheet of paper and put it in an antique Kodak contact printer under the enlarger to make the positive, so everything was done chemically (not digitally). I was surprised at the quality (especially resolution)in both the negative, and the print especially, not totally apparent in the scan. This method also tends to be somewhat orthochromatic, so you have some interesting tonal difference from panchromatic film.

I do think this has some creative possibilities.

-- Todd Frederick (fredrick@hotcity.com), April 24, 2000.

Todd, I have used paper negatives for portraiture and it give the old time ortho effect because the paper is orthochromatic, it has to be otherwise your red safelight on your enlarger would not work. The only panchromatic paper I know of is made by Kodak for making b/w prints from color negs. (Panalure ?) Paper negs make it worth while to buy the out of date single wt. papers that some people sell in the Shutterbug. Kodabromide papers work great and the Azo papers are great also. Regards, Pat

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), April 26, 2000.