Solo on The Prow and Leaning Tower WF : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

Hi,I'm planning to solo the Leaning Tower WF and The Prow.I've climbed extensively on the East Cost but it's my first trip to the Valley.I'd appreciate any beta,but i have specific questions for both route; a)what's the wheather like in April? b)any particulars for the rack? c)is the cheater-stick really necessary? d)Which pitch can be linked using a 60m rope? e)tips on soloing those routes? Thanks a lot! Madhu,

-- Madhu Boiteau (, April 01, 2000


The weather in April is fairly unstable, oftentimes cold, with snow. the rack for theLT is fairly light, nuts, doubles on small cams, singles on bigger cams(like camalot 2 or bigger).. The prow you need a bit more gear in general, doubles or triples on small cams, doubles on big stuff. Cheaterstick is not necassary, but as always, time saving.

on the LT- i wouldn't bring a portaledge, as the Ahwanhee ledge is super flat, and only four pitches up. You can link pitches 1 and 2, 3 and 4,and 8and 9. from the pitch 6 belay it is one rope back to Guano Ledge, which facilitates soloing.

on the prow-i would bring portaledge, but unnecessary(bivy not so comfortable, and a bit high on the route.) i don't recall being able to link pitches. As everyone else says- don't do the the Belly crawl- stay right.

tips-bring cam hooks and chouinard hooks , have fun

-- Matt Bunz (, April 01, 2000.

On the Tower w/200 ft rope link 3+4. Set awhanee anchor on furthest right set of bolts then you can link 5+6(I would only link these two if you are solo because of the rope drag) and 8+9 up the slab and over the roof. No cheater stick needed but throw the bolt kit in case one of them manky rivits are gone. Prow you can link 2+3 , and 7+8 w/200 ft rope.

The weather all depends on the year, I have been hit by snow in may/june, and had weeks of nice weather in december. If weather is a concern do the tower, pitch 5 off the awhanee is the only one that gets wet. Enjoy

-- Friday (, April 01, 2000.

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