Portraits at low light: Film and longest exposure

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I need to take some portrait type shots next week. They will be taken in a church, it will be dark and I will not be able to use flash.

I had a look around today, and it seems like I'll be able to get exposure times of around 1/25 with ISO 3200 film and a EF 135mm f2L USM lens. I can't get a faster lens or use flash so the film seems to be the only variable.

My current thought is to use Ilford 3200 Delta Pro in 135 format. I have used this film before and it seems to me that it should be simpler to control a B&W film at high speeds: at least you don't have to worry (directly) about colour balance.

However, the client would really like some colour pictures (as well). Help!!

In colour reversal film I only know of Fujichrome Provia 1600 Pro (RSP) and Ektachrome P1600X Pro (EPH) that will push to that speed. Does anybody have any experiences with these films at moderately slow shutter speeds (1/12-1/50)? How do they handle mixed light? (I can probably filter the worst light sources.)

Or would I be better off with colour print film? The last time I tried a film in this speed range the result was horrible. Maybe there are some better films now. How about PJ800 @ EI3200? (It was PJC I tried and didn't like, but the PJ films are a different emulsion.) Anybody tried Konica SR-G3200?

The objective is to preserve skin tones and, secondly, clothing. Alternatively: how long time can a model reasonably stay still? Could I go to 1/5 or 1/2 second exposure? ("Hold your breath, dear...") Any comments would be appreciated.

-- Allan Engelhardt (allane@cybaea.com), February 13, 2000

Answers

Hi Allan,

After having been tortured by choreographers to shoot the craziest lighting one can possibly imagine, I've learnt some things that might be of use to you.

With the 135mm f/2, you should be able to handhold the lens at 1/30 sec. if you have steady hands; at this speed, you should be able to get good shots if the model doesn't blink at the moment of shutter release. I've had good luck shooting in subways with techpan and 50mm f/1.4. So, you should be okay with 3200 if you are spot metering for the face. If not, you can try to push it to 6400 and use microphen or Ilfotec DDX. With DDX, Ilford time gives me underdevelopment. So, try overdeveloping it for extra 20%.

As for colour, the best film out there is Fuji NHGII. I've rated the film at 6400 without problem. In addition, since the film has a 2 stop lattitude for underexposure, you can try shooting at 6400 and push processing +1 (ie. 1600). I tend to push +3 but that is personal preference.

Above all, please keep in mind that you really need to spot meter for this kind of situation. If your metering is off, the negs will be crazy to print from. I wouldn't shoot slides in this situation if I have a choice. Though, if I have to do it, I would try the Fuji RMS which is quite nice at ISO 1000. Provia 1600 is a good choice too, but just a bit more punchy than the Kodak 1600.

David Hou

-- David Hou (dna2367@hotmail.com), February 13, 2000.


Why not use a tripod?

-- Peter Hughes (leo948@yahoo.com), February 13, 2000.

Peter: I will be using a tripod, but how long can the model hold still?

-- Allan Engelhardt (allane@cybaea.com), February 14, 2000.

If the model is braced/stable, I have got printable results with 1 second.

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), February 15, 2000.

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