I am new at this. After a begining darkroom class I have ventured out on my own to the darkroom, alone. In class we used Kodak developer, stop bath and fixer. I am using all Ilford. My prints seem to show more grain using Ilford, is this just my imagination or is it in my processing technique (I followed the time and mixing ratio on the bottle) or is it the chemistry?.

-- Van Lindley (tvlindley@mindspring.com), January 13, 2000

Answers

It is most likely you and your lack of understanding of the materials. As you grow you will come to understand the importance of testing your materials and methods. It needn't be endless testing either. A few simple film speed tests and some processing tests using your equipment, and developing your own proceedures that work best for you, will suffice for a lifetime of joy and satisfaction. This is a good place to get information on processes and proceedures but learn to think for yourself. Most materials react in the same fashion as any other so don't go thinking that the Kodak/Ilford/Agfa materials are the only way to go. I can make any of these materials do what any of the others will do. I can make them all look the same. Pick a couple of films and developers and try them out on the kinds of images you like to shoot. Mix and match. Try a couple of different papers. Just because I find Kodak Polymax Fine Art FB glossy surface is the paper I like the most for my images doesn't mean Ilford MGIV pearl finish in Agfa Neutol isn't a better bet for the images you make and your working conditions. Don't get caught up in believing one material is better than another because Joe Netsurfer says it is. Test it yourself. Opinions are like butholes. Everyone has one. Listen to the info handed out here but test it for yourself. James

-- Mr.Lumberjack (james_mickelson@hotmail.com), January 14, 2000.

To think that this chemistry/film/paper (or whatever) or that is just "better" would be rather naive. If there were some "best" chemistry, all the others would probably disappear from the market. In fact, some combinations of film and brew work particularly well *for certain purposes*. So what you must find out is the combination that works best for you. As long as you haven't acquired enough knowledge to fiddle with things, you are well advised to stick with manufacturer's recommendations for their stuff. Later you will probably adapt the procedures to match your needs.

As for your current problem with the grain: *If* you used the same film in the class, and only the developer is different now, it might be that (apart from the difference in brand name) you used some kind of fine-grain developer in the class.

If you find the grain disturbing with your current material, and wish to stick with Ilford, try their fine-grain developer (sorry, forgot the name, but you will be able to find it in their fact sheet for your film - assuming that the film is Ilford, too.) Also (or alternatively), if you are using conventional technology film (like Pan F, FP4 or HP 5), you might want to try a film with controlled crystals (such as the Deltas). These are somewhat less forgiving when it comes to processing errors, but their grain is less disturbing.

-- Thomas Wollstein (thomas_wollstein@web.de), January 14, 2000.

Kodak make loads of developers, as do Ilford, and others. Some developers show grain more than others. And different techniques will do likewise.

Did you have a specific reason for switching after your class? Was there something about the chemistry you didn't like? If not, I suggest you switch back to it, and use the same techniques. It is better to stick with what you know, and really get to know it, than to arbitrarily switch around.

When you have spent some time (say, 6 months) with a particular combination, you might then explore fine grain developers, and discover what they are good and bad at, and which developer you prefer under different circumstances.

-- Alan Gibson (Alan.Gibson@technologist.com), January 14, 2000.