Azo&ferrotypinggreenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread
I've been trying to ferrotype Azo without success. I've had trouble with micro-fine bubbles, sticking to glass, concentric rings from print drying from outside to center, and you name it. Rust from stainless surface. Is there someone who can explain a method of successful ferrotyping to me. Thank you, David
-- david clark (email@example.com), October 04, 1999
I used to do this many years ago. I used a ferrotyping plate (chrome plated steel, I believe). I remember using ferrotype polish to prepare the plate and recall my results were somewhat less than 100% perfect. I also recall using photoflo as a wetting agent to minimize bubbles and imperfections. That seemed to help. I've never had any success using a drum type dryer. I'm as curious now as you to hear what others have come up with.
-- Robert A. Zeichner (firstname.lastname@example.org), October 04, 1999.
Use chromed metal tins. Polish them with Bon Ami cleanser. Treat the prints in Pakosol or make your own from photo-flo and glycerin. Lay them on the tin rather wet and roll or squeegee into good contact. I use a Premier heated dryer with good results.
-- Tony Brent (email@example.com), October 06, 1999.