I recently got a used T3 which I haven't shot film with yet, so I don't know if I have a real problem or not. Here's the issue -- when I mount a lens, the portion of the aperture readout in the viewfinder that's supposed to be "masked" does not correspond with the actual maximum aperture of the lens that's been mounted. (I have another T3 that's accurate in this regard.) For example, mounting my 40/1.8 causes the masking to go only to 1.4. I have a Vivitar Series 1 135/2.3 that masks only to 2. A 135/3.5 masks only to about 2.8 or a little more. In short, it looks as though the coupling is off by maybe 1/2 stop. I'm afraid this will result in the meter underexposing by about that much. Am I right? Can this be rectified? Or am I worrying about nothing? While I do mainly shoot negative film, which gives more latitude, I'd like to have the meter as accurate as possible. Any thoughts, similar experiences, etc. would be most welcome. Thanks.

-- Anonymous, October 01, 1999

Answers

F-Stop Coupling

Nick,

I have seen this before where a single Hexanon lens will not "blank" the proper maximum aperture in the viewfinder. In that case, it was more of an annoyance than a real functional problem in that exposure was not affected UNLESS you tried to expose in the range beyond the lens' maximum aperture.

These Konicas' aperture control is sometimes referred to as the "trapped needle" system, where the important issue is the actual needle/ f-stop reading at the moment of exposure.

If this were my camera, I'd check the exposure on a given target (I use my office wall illuminated by lamplight) against either another Konica or a meter.

I suspect that you'll find that the exposure is actually OK.

If not, then suspect some mechanical damage or mis-calibration, and it's into the shop.

-jwk-

-- Anonymous, October 01, 1999

meter coupling?

I have the same "feature" on both my TC's. Great pictures though. I will call my repairman and see if there are any consequences other than cosmetic.

-- Anonymous, October 08, 1999