Plese help! I was interested about Tetenal Emofin film developer, cause it's should make easy printable neagtives. I developed one film, Agfapan 100, used right time & agitation every minute. Negative looked good, but when I tried it had very high density. I had to use much longer exposures, almost 2-3 times more. What went wrong ? I used Agefix & Berg's Hypo.

Antti J. Hyvdrinen

-- Antti J. Hyvdrinen (antti.hyvarinen@umo.inet.fi), June 07, 1999

Answers

>negative looked good...had very high density< looks like a too-much- contrast syndrom. The negative may look good on the light table, but has blocked highlights. Maybe you should have a shorter development time. If I remember right, Emofin is an old ( from the fifties?) fine grain developer. In older days, when getting more speed from BW films was essential, the manufactures gave much stronger concepts for developing comparing to praxis of today. The fix and hypo cannot cause the problem you described, unless your negative is not strongly allover fogged.Make a try with a little more exposure, and, I would guess, a development time that is 1/3 shorter.

-- Jan Eerala (jan.eerala@itameri.net), June 15, 1999.

I have used the combination apx100 and emofin for years. Compared to other developers emofin results in a HIGHER sensibility (speed) of a film, plus 1 to 2 stops. (zone system photographers will know what I mean when I say 80 - 100 ASA is the REAL speed of apx100 in emofin, in other developers like Ilfosol it is about 40 ASA).

For normal contrast I use the following times (apx 100/120):

Emofin 20 degrees Celsius: Bath 1 5 minutes, agitation 6 seconds every minute Bath 2 5 " " " " " " Stop Bath (20 deg) 30 sec

Fixing (20 deg) Ilford Hypam 1+4 + hardener 5 Minutes

Washing

Don't mix up the two baths of Emofin!

-- Thies Meincke (meincke@uni-hamburg.de), June 16, 1999.